Electrolysis for rust removal on 1940 Schwinn?
10-12-22, 10:01 AM
#1
Electrolysis for rust removal on 1940 Schwinn?
Hey guys, I picked up this heavily rusted 1940 Schwinn DX frame. I don’t have access to a media blaster but I do have everything needed for an electrolysis tub. Before I proceed, is there any reason to avoid this method to strip the frame down to clean metal? Thanks
10-12-22, 10:16 AM
#2
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I would definitely remove all the bits (headset cups, headbadge, etc) that you can. I'm not sure how electrolysis affects the fillet (brass), but I have used it before to great success with rusty tools.
10-12-22, 10:49 AM
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This looks like a worthy job. I would remove everything then take it to a chrome plating shop and have them do a dip in one of thier big acid baths. I have always though about preserving petina by putting a couple coats of Penitrol on the raw metal after chemically stripping off the rust
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10-12-22, 11:21 AM
#5
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I'll repeat what I read when researching such things: do not use electrolysis on parts with chrome. The results are nasty in a toxic SuperFund MethLab kind of way. For your purposes it looks like you'd be fine if you remove the headset and bottom bracket cups.
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10-12-22, 12:08 PM
#6
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Shortest Distance Between Two Points
As you are likely aware, electrolysis only works "line of sight." Corrosion will only be removed from surfaces where a straight line extends from the anode to cathode
No internal rust will be removed, and perhaps some sections of the external surface will not be addressed.
No internal rust will be removed, and perhaps some sections of the external surface will not be addressed.
10-12-22, 01:53 PM
#7
Senior Member
Can you imagine the total current required to electrolyze an entire frame all at once. I bet it is a HUGE number.
What voltage is needed to remove iron oxide?
I was thinking oxalic acid bath in a kiddie pool would work and be easier.
What voltage is needed to remove iron oxide?
I was thinking oxalic acid bath in a kiddie pool would work and be easier.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 10-12-22 at 11:04 PM.
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10-12-22, 04:38 PM
#8
Not lost wanderer.
Electrolysis is only line of sight and it will need to be rotated often to get it all.
It will not take much current, but I use a 12v battery charger and some old fence post as my anode.
If you put the anode in line with the tube opening it will take some of the rust out.
It will not take much current, but I use a 12v battery charger and some old fence post as my anode.
If you put the anode in line with the tube opening it will take some of the rust out.
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10-13-22, 07:59 AM
#11
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For a whole frame, I'd use oxalic acid. A kiddie pool could work. Another option to cut one side off a bicycle frame box, making a clam shell out of the box. Line the clam shell with a watertight tarp and fill with your oxalic acid mix. Doing it with Evaporust will be expensive.
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10-13-22, 08:10 AM
#12
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I saw an interesting oxalic acid/evaporust technique on a bike restoration youtube channel. The person created a 'floating bath' by filling a kiddie pool most of the way with water. They placed a waterproof tarp over this, then put a frame on the tarp and poured evaporust over it until submerged. Used much less evaporust liquid this way than filling an entire container with it. Sorry I don't have a link.
No experience using electrolysis. That's a beautiful frame, good luck!
No experience using electrolysis. That's a beautiful frame, good luck!
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