Crankset, stripped pedal threads, looking to replace.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
Crankset, stripped pedal threads, looking to replace.
I have a 2019 Kona Rove ST that I bought new, and it has the stock "SRAM S350" crankset that came with it. Upon removing the pedals that have been on for years to try some new ones, it turns out the right side crank pedal threads are stripped. Stripped like, you can slide a pedal in and out--will not grip/tighten (I had installed a new set of pedals---all seemed good, but after about 5 min of riding the right pedal came loose, and now no pedal can be tightened in there. My guess is the previous pedal must have been in a little off. I noticed upon removing it some metal shards coming out).
Maybe this is repairable? I dunno how much can be done in a case like this. I'm fine w replacing the cranks, but I can't find the same "SRAM S350"(that's the only spec I have on it from Kona) crankset anywhere. There are some on eBay, but they're named a little differently(for ex. "GXP"), and I'm a bit of a noob with this stuff.
What specs should I be looking for in researching a replacement crankset for this bike?
Pretty sure this is it: https://www.sram.com/en/service/models/fc-s350-1-a1
https://archive.konaworld.com/archive/2019/rove_st.cfm
Here's one that looks similar on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19492311385...640cb63b344011
Maybe this is repairable? I dunno how much can be done in a case like this. I'm fine w replacing the cranks, but I can't find the same "SRAM S350"(that's the only spec I have on it from Kona) crankset anywhere. There are some on eBay, but they're named a little differently(for ex. "GXP"), and I'm a bit of a noob with this stuff.
What specs should I be looking for in researching a replacement crankset for this bike?
Pretty sure this is it: https://www.sram.com/en/service/models/fc-s350-1-a1
https://archive.konaworld.com/archive/2019/rove_st.cfm
Here's one that looks similar on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19492311385...640cb63b344011
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,355
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4590 Post(s)
Liked 1,740 Times
in
1,138 Posts
You could repair it with a heli-coil. Or replace the arm.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,050 Times
in
740 Posts
GXP is a reference to the style of crank/bb interface. GXP is a through axle system with a built in spindle on the chainring side that's 24mm on the right side but 22mm on the left side. The crank probably also comes in DUB which is a 29.something diameter spindle. Suggests you'll need to know which standard your sram 350 crank is using. However, the kona specs say GXP for the BB, so yes, the GXP 350 crank in your ebay link will fit the bb standard the kone parts list claims the bike came with.
Likes For Russ Roth:
Likes For choddo:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,410
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 559 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times
in
382 Posts
Beware of the thread insert taps that incorporate a taper reamer to take the hole out to size - they're a pain to use and IME don't cut a clean properly sized thread. Maybe the set I had was a cheap knock-off, and there are good ones that work, IDK.
Likes For grumpus:
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
Thanks for all the replies. Kona sent me a couple SRAM links that should work as this S350 was either an OEM spec piece only, or has been discontinued. But as they also suggest, I'm gonna take it down to my LBS and have them order something, just to make sure!
Likes For pbass:
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,998
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 305 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26481 Post(s)
Liked 10,448 Times
in
7,248 Posts
I would suggest asking the place you take it about either a threadsert repair, or an old standard spark plug helicoil, which are still available in RH threading (that is the same as pedal threading), if you look around. The old car guys use them (a lot). But most cities big enough to support a bike shop will have at least someone who can do threadsert crank repairs. When I worked at the co-op here, I did many of them. Got a couple of nice cranks that way, that were otherwise getting tossed.
Threadsert repair kit from Unior
Helicoil crank repair kit (cheaper...possibly a better repair)
If you start calling auto parts places, you want a helicoil in RH thread that is 9/16"x 20tpi. It's an obsolete standard for cars, but they are still around for obsolete car repairs.
Likes For 3alarmer:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,998
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 305 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26481 Post(s)
Liked 10,448 Times
in
7,248 Posts
...they work OK, as long as you remove the crank arm from the bike, hold it flat in a bench vise, and make sure you are tapping your new hole at 90* to the arm. ( I use a small carpentry square to check as it starts to bite in.) Some cranks are more easily tapped by starting on the back side, which is usually pretty flat. The threadsert needs to be locked in with red Loctite. Helicoils are easier to use, if you have access to them.
Likes For 3alarmer: