Removing Hub End Caps
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Removing Hub End Caps
I have a set of Bontrager Paradigm wheels and I’d like to remove the hub end cap.
Trek makes a tool
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/bike-accessories/bike-tools-maintenance/bike-shop-supplies/unior-hub-genie-20mm-end-cap-removal-tool/p/24925/?colorCode=black
but I’d like to have this end cap off sooner rather than later.
Do you folks know of an alternate way of doing this?
I wonder if this tool would work on other brands?
Trek makes a tool
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/bike-accessories/bike-tools-maintenance/bike-shop-supplies/unior-hub-genie-20mm-end-cap-removal-tool/p/24925/?colorCode=black
but I’d like to have this end cap off sooner rather than later.
Do you folks know of an alternate way of doing this?
I wonder if this tool would work on other brands?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,099
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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Odds are you can use an appropriate expanding wall anchor. If you can find the right size in a solid wall anchor, fit it in, then use the screw to expand it until it holds, then yank. A hollow wall anchor would also work if there's enough depth to work with.
Otherwise, use a piece of dowel or wood that fits. Drill it and saw one side so it can spread. Run a wood screw in until it jams, and yank.
Unless servicing these will be a regular thing, I'd improvise something before shelling out the dough, even if time weren't a concern.
Otherwise, use a piece of dowel or wood that fits. Drill it and saw one side so it can spread. Run a wood screw in until it jams, and yank.
Unless servicing these will be a regular thing, I'd improvise something before shelling out the dough, even if time weren't a concern.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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#3
Senior Member
Can it be drifted out (flat punch and hammer) from the opposite side? I don't know if this is a front or rear wheel, and setup on the other side.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is a front wheel with center lock on the other side.
I doubt a punch would work due to the sleeve ( lack of better word) inside the hub matches the inside diameter of the end cap, meaning that you won’t be able to get purchase on the edge of the end cap by inserting a punch in the opposite side.
I doubt a punch would work due to the sleeve ( lack of better word) inside the hub matches the inside diameter of the end cap, meaning that you won’t be able to get purchase on the edge of the end cap by inserting a punch in the opposite side.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Odds are you can use an appropriate expanding wall anchor. If you can find the right size in a solid wall anchor, fit it in, then use the screw to expand it until it holds, then yank. A hollow wall anchor would also work if there's enough depth to work with.
Otherwise, use a piece of dowel or wood that fits. Drill it and saw one side so it can spread. Run a wood screw in until it jams, and yank.
Unless servicing these will be a regular thing, I'd improvise something before shelling out the dough, even if time weren't a concern.
Otherwise, use a piece of dowel or wood that fits. Drill it and saw one side so it can spread. Run a wood screw in until it jams, and yank.
Unless servicing these will be a regular thing, I'd improvise something before shelling out the dough, even if time weren't a concern.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,099
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5995 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,627 Posts
I like the integrated finger grip.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
Senior Member
This is a front wheel with center lock on the other side.
I doubt a punch would work due to the sleeve ( lack of better word) inside the hub matches the inside diameter of the end cap, meaning that you won’t be able to get purchase on the edge of the end cap by inserting a punch in the opposite side.
I doubt a punch would work due to the sleeve ( lack of better word) inside the hub matches the inside diameter of the end cap, meaning that you won’t be able to get purchase on the edge of the end cap by inserting a punch in the opposite side.