Tire rotation direction
05-13-24, 01:32 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 303
Bikes: 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 1989 Supergo Access Comp, 1989 Nishiki Pinnacle,1990 Trek 750, 1990 Trek 970, 1991 Miyata Quickcross, 1992 Bridgestone RB-2, 2002 Stumpjumper M4 Pro
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 302 Times
in
126 Posts
Tire rotation direction
Kind of lame question. I bought this ole MTB and the tire treads are pointing in opposite directions. See pics below. I feel like the front is correct and the rear should be removed and flipped. What do y'all think?
I've seen some tires where the suggested direction is indeed opposite for front vs rear. That always seemed weird to me haha. Anyway, these are basic Innova tires, and I don't see any directional markings anywhere on the tires.
Front tire
Rear tire
I've seen some tires where the suggested direction is indeed opposite for front vs rear. That always seemed weird to me haha. Anyway, these are basic Innova tires, and I don't see any directional markings anywhere on the tires.
Front tire
Rear tire
05-13-24, 01:36 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,566
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1003 Post(s)
Liked 1,684 Times
in
1,082 Posts
They say it makes a difference so I do a little digging to make sure and mount my tires in the prescribed direction.
Still... I really dont think its that big of a deal on a normal bicycle tire.
Still... I really dont think its that big of a deal on a normal bicycle tire.
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
Likes For zandoval:
05-13-24, 02:07 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,388
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 554 Post(s)
Liked 486 Times
in
373 Posts
Kind of lame question. I bought this ole MTB and the tire treads are pointing in opposite directions. See pics below. I feel like the front is correct and the rear should be removed and flipped. What do y'all think?
I've seen some tires where the suggested direction is indeed opposite for front vs rear. That always seemed weird to me haha. Anyway, these are basic Innova tires, and I don't see any directional markings anywhere on the tires.
I've seen some tires where the suggested direction is indeed opposite for front vs rear. That always seemed weird to me haha. Anyway, these are basic Innova tires, and I don't see any directional markings anywhere on the tires.
a) the chevron-like element of the tread should point forwards as seen from above (for quieter running or water clearing or ...)
b) the front is for braking and the rear is for driving so the front should be reversed from (a)
c) (b) is backwards, it's the flat bits that grip not the pointy bits
and so on. There is certainly some merit to having a good-steering front tyre and a differently-patterned good-driving rear tyre if you venture off paved roads, so you may like to experiment but I think on the whole a basic general purpose tyre like the ones you have won't do anything great but is fine for the money.
Likes For grumpus:
05-13-24, 02:20 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,992
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5930 Post(s)
Liked 2,820 Times
in
1,575 Posts
If you ride on loose dirt or mud the direction of this kind of tread makes a difference.
As you read this imagine a bulldozer. You want the hard wall to push against the dirt. That means toward the back on the bottom of the rear wheel for driving forward.
The front presents two choices. Some people mount as you did so the points engage first and cut into dirt, and others do the opposite for braking.
On surfaces where the tread won't dig in and push, mount both tires as you did the front.
As you read this imagine a bulldozer. You want the hard wall to push against the dirt. That means toward the back on the bottom of the rear wheel for driving forward.
The front presents two choices. Some people mount as you did so the points engage first and cut into dirt, and others do the opposite for braking.
On surfaces where the tread won't dig in and push, mount both tires as you did the front.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Likes For FBinNY:
05-13-24, 02:39 PM
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 303
Bikes: 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 1989 Supergo Access Comp, 1989 Nishiki Pinnacle,1990 Trek 750, 1990 Trek 970, 1991 Miyata Quickcross, 1992 Bridgestone RB-2, 2002 Stumpjumper M4 Pro
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 302 Times
in
126 Posts
Thanks for the replies.
I took your advice and did some digging... there are varying opinions to say the least 
Thanks for this... it's a good summary of what I found as the (apparent) consensus online. So my "reversed rear" is the setup for off road action. I'll be riding 90% pavement though, and any off road will be lightweight.... I'm too old for shredding. So I think I'll flip the rear to also point "forward" with the tread.
If you ride on loose dirt or mud the direction of this kind of tread makes a difference.
As you read this imagine a bulldozer. You want the hard wall to push against the dirt. That means toward the back on the bottom of the rear wheel for driving forward.
The front presents two choices. Some people mount as you did so the points engage first and cut into dirt, and others do the opposite for braking.
On surfaces where the tread won't dig in and push, mount both tires as you did the front.
As you read this imagine a bulldozer. You want the hard wall to push against the dirt. That means toward the back on the bottom of the rear wheel for driving forward.
The front presents two choices. Some people mount as you did so the points engage first and cut into dirt, and others do the opposite for braking.
On surfaces where the tread won't dig in and push, mount both tires as you did the front.
05-13-24, 04:00 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,149
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4233 Post(s)
Liked 3,953 Times
in
2,352 Posts
In a shop the imaged front tire is correct and the rear tread is in the wrong direction. Mostly because customers expect it. As Francis said unless there's a soft enough surface to allow any tread to mechanically engage the "surface" any tread is of very little difference. And for those who mention hydroplaning, I say hog wash on a bicycle.
As to direction of tread pattern making a difference the only time I can say for sure it did was with an IRC tandem spec tire (700x30). That tire had a shallow road like directional tread and a label for the rotating direction. When mounted in this direction the rear tire would hum with every strong pedal stroke we made. After reversing the tire's direction the earth did not also reverse rotation but the hum was gone. Andy
Note that the imaged tread patterns show one direction on the top of the tire and the other at the actual contact patch.
As to direction of tread pattern making a difference the only time I can say for sure it did was with an IRC tandem spec tire (700x30). That tire had a shallow road like directional tread and a label for the rotating direction. When mounted in this direction the rear tire would hum with every strong pedal stroke we made. After reversing the tire's direction the earth did not also reverse rotation but the hum was gone. Andy
Note that the imaged tread patterns show one direction on the top of the tire and the other at the actual contact patch.
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
05-14-24, 10:26 AM
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,257
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6340 Post(s)
Liked 4,935 Times
in
3,397 Posts
If 90% of your riding is on pavement. Then why not consider getting something that has a less aggressive tread pattern. Couple with a better tire for rolling resistance you'll find your ride more comfortable and your legs won't tire as quickly letting you ride longer. Very possibly that longer time cycling will give you better cardiovascular benefit.
Likes For Iride01:
