Strongest Cable Lock?
#1
DirtRider
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Strongest Cable Lock?
im looking to bouy a new cable lock, as strong and thick as possible lol. i have had 2 bikes stolen now from my old kryptonite locks, i want a cable, no others, any recommendations?
#2
Uber Goober
By any chance, were your old kryptonite locks the ones you could pick with a bic pen?
See this link, for example- doing some searching will turn up various reviews:
https://www.consumersearch.com/www/sp...s/reviews.html
A book I've got here recommends minimum 3/8", preferably 1/2" cable, rather than the ready-made cable locks.
See this link, for example- doing some searching will turn up various reviews:
https://www.consumersearch.com/www/sp...s/reviews.html
A book I've got here recommends minimum 3/8", preferably 1/2" cable, rather than the ready-made cable locks.
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#4
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If you want to keep your bikes don't buy a cable lock.
Get the biggest, heaviest, most expensive, chain and padlock that they offer.
Even the "armored" cable locks can be cut very easily.
Get the biggest, heaviest, most expensive, chain and padlock that they offer.
Even the "armored" cable locks can be cut very easily.
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Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
#5
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If you absolutely must get a cable lock, and many here will slate you mercilessly for doing so, get a plain cable (like the ones used in conjunction with D's) and a solid padlock that will preferably do the two looks and something like the seat stay. Plain cables, like the Kryptonite lengths, are less easy to carve up and a decent padlock should deter the less dedicated thieves.
You would be better off with said cable and a mini D that can attach your frame to something.
You would be better off with said cable and a mini D that can attach your frame to something.
#6
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If I had two bikes stolen while locked up I wouldn't be replacing the lock with anything that looked at all similar. I'm thinking that you need the "New York Chain" or something like that.
#8
Banned
If for some bizarre reason you are dead set on a cable lock look at the Abus Steeloflex Granit 1000 (or the untested but supposedly tougher 1050). The 1000 did the best on last years Cycling Plus lock test. Keep in mind that it is quite expensive and offers less security as a U-lock or chain of the same price.
Here's where to buy them in the US.
https://www.lockitt.com/CablesArmored.htm
Here's where to buy them in the US.
https://www.lockitt.com/CablesArmored.htm
#9
Senior Member
if someone is out to steal bikes, there is nothing you can buy that
will last more than 2 minutes of attack by a pro bike theif. if everything
else fails, a battery operated angle grinder pwns everything.
will last more than 2 minutes of attack by a pro bike theif. if everything
else fails, a battery operated angle grinder pwns everything.
#10
Senior Member
Get a good U-lock, and also get a good chain+padlock. Use them both at the same time, and use each so that it alone could be locking up your bike.
~
#12
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Honestly, most cable locks can be *easily* and *silently* cut. Its easy to take out a thinner model with something so simple as a pair of good WISS shears, and even the toughest can be defeated with slightly larger hand tools. Shimming many of these locks is also very easy as well! My girlfriend lost the keys to her Kryptonite cable lock once, all it took was removing the rubber guard and inserting a shim in to pop it open again.
Two distinctly different types of locks is best. If one is what needs to do, proper locking technique is *more* important than the quality of the lock in many cases, like U-locks.
#13
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Sheldon Brown and mechBgone both have some good information about locking a bike in hops of it being back when you return.
If weight is an issue, consider leaving a solid lock attached to the bike racks where you park at. Then, you can use the lock, and leave it there.
IMHO, anything less than an entry level U-lock or solid chain is almost asking a thief to add the bike to their inventory. Even a low end U lock like a Kryptonite Keeper will force thieves who are using bolt cutters to pop cables to have to use a totally different means of entry.
If weight is an issue, consider leaving a solid lock attached to the bike racks where you park at. Then, you can use the lock, and leave it there.
IMHO, anything less than an entry level U-lock or solid chain is almost asking a thief to add the bike to their inventory. Even a low end U lock like a Kryptonite Keeper will force thieves who are using bolt cutters to pop cables to have to use a totally different means of entry.
#14
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if they're public bike racks take care - the local authorities cut unused locks off, at least in the UK anyway.
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shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
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#17
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#18
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cable locks
Most bikes get stolen by brazen opportunists. Been an avid cyclist for 40 years, incl work daily.
Locking your bike with a high quality, plastic coated cable lock is one of the safest locks on the market. The one with built-in locks with 5 pins (grooves in key) work great 99% of the time, excluding a thief with grinder or bolt cutters of course. I never use "D" type locks, and never had a bike stolen either, always used cable locks. Be vigilant and tell others to lookout for you if possible.
Locking your bike with a high quality, plastic coated cable lock is one of the safest locks on the market. The one with built-in locks with 5 pins (grooves in key) work great 99% of the time, excluding a thief with grinder or bolt cutters of course. I never use "D" type locks, and never had a bike stolen either, always used cable locks. Be vigilant and tell others to lookout for you if possible.
#19
Senior Member
Cablelocks are neon signs that advertise to crooks: "Free bike Right Here". The cable locks that are as tough as a five pound u-lock weigh eight or ten pounds. So, the five pound u-lock is the best combination of weight and security.
If you live in the sort of city that has skilled crooks targeting bikes, you need to avoid riding an obviously expensive bike (a really nice 1988 bike with Shimano 105 rides well, but does not interest a "pro" who steals bikes).
And, if your bike will be out of your sight for more than two minutes, you need high quality u-locks. the two pound models from Kryptonite and OnGuard work well in safe neighborhoods for a thirty minute shopping trip. But, if your bike will be parked for eight hours at a time, or after dark, you need the BEST, which would be the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock, or the Kryptonite New York u-lock.
When I go to baseball games at night in downtown Houston, I have a Kryptonite New York lock around the rear wheel and a steel post set in concrete, and then a two pound u-lock, such as the OnGuard Pitbull, around the front wheel and a locking post, or at least attaching the front wheel to the frame.
And, if I'm going downtown, it is on a 20 year old bike...which I park next to the newest Cannondale or Trek I see...crooks prefer new and shiny bikes that are easily pawned over rusty, scratched vintage bikes, no matter how good that old bike actually is.
If you live in the sort of city that has skilled crooks targeting bikes, you need to avoid riding an obviously expensive bike (a really nice 1988 bike with Shimano 105 rides well, but does not interest a "pro" who steals bikes).
And, if your bike will be out of your sight for more than two minutes, you need high quality u-locks. the two pound models from Kryptonite and OnGuard work well in safe neighborhoods for a thirty minute shopping trip. But, if your bike will be parked for eight hours at a time, or after dark, you need the BEST, which would be the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock, or the Kryptonite New York u-lock.
When I go to baseball games at night in downtown Houston, I have a Kryptonite New York lock around the rear wheel and a steel post set in concrete, and then a two pound u-lock, such as the OnGuard Pitbull, around the front wheel and a locking post, or at least attaching the front wheel to the frame.
And, if I'm going downtown, it is on a 20 year old bike...which I park next to the newest Cannondale or Trek I see...crooks prefer new and shiny bikes that are easily pawned over rusty, scratched vintage bikes, no matter how good that old bike actually is.