breaking a cassette apart
#1
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breaking a cassette apart
im doing a single speed conversion to a 7speed casette.
the cassette seems to be held togather with 4 pins that run through the sprockets and spacers. the pins apear to have a head on them, but they are very flush with the surface of the bigest sprocket.
whats the best method/tools to cut the heads off to bust this thing apart?
the cassette seems to be held togather with 4 pins that run through the sprockets and spacers. the pins apear to have a head on them, but they are very flush with the surface of the bigest sprocket.
whats the best method/tools to cut the heads off to bust this thing apart?
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Some cassettes use a very small metric hex, probably 1, 1.5 or 2mm. I do remember taking one apart this way. It could have been a SRAM.
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big flat blade screwdriver and wedge the big ring off the rivets
then do the rest. it'll come apart
a cool idea is get 2 identical sprockets a few teeth bigger than your singlespeed gear
you will use, and grind off the teeth so they are smooth. and use those with spacers around your
singlespeed gear. looks mint and acts as a chain guide. it takes 2 donor cassettes though...
then do the rest. it'll come apart
a cool idea is get 2 identical sprockets a few teeth bigger than your singlespeed gear
you will use, and grind off the teeth so they are smooth. and use those with spacers around your
singlespeed gear. looks mint and acts as a chain guide. it takes 2 donor cassettes though...
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theres no hex, theyre just flat topped heads. theyre too flush to get underneith.
127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?
why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.
127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?
why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.
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Cassette assemblies are held together by hex head screws (usually 4mm), allen head screws (usually 2mm), or rivets. Note that 2mm allen head screws may look like rivets. If yours has rivets, file or grind off, or drill out the heads.
#7
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drill them out. Prying off the big cog is a hack job.
You can buy shimano bmx cogs for $5 at your LBS. They work better than a separated cassette.
You can buy shimano bmx cogs for $5 at your LBS. They work better than a separated cassette.
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Even if your eyes are fine and age hasn't hardened the lens in your eyes - reading glasses can come in handy for fine work on bicycles. Such as distinguishing a 2mm hex-bolt from a rivet. And you can better brow-beat people with glasses on. LOL.
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i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
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What other spacers are you going to use aside from the ones from the cassette? If the cog from the cassette is ramped then a single speed cog would work better.
#11
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i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
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i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
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One other consideration: not all cogs are "full plate", that is usable by themselves. Some cogs are mounted in groups on a spider and the individual cogs have open centers that won't work on the hub splines by themselves. Be sure any cog you want to use can be mounted as an individual.
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theres no hex, theyre just flat topped heads. theyre too flush to get underneith.
127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?
why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.
127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?
why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.
you don't need a guide, but it 'looks' bad a** if you have shiny drilled rings with the teeth ground off.
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hes got a 7 speed. So is unlikely that there will be a metal spider holding the big cogs.
maybe a real spider though
maybe a real spider though
#16
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File off the rivet heads. They're SOFT steel, so it only takes 1-2 minutes each. Then they'll punch out easily!
The only thing I wonder about is you said 4 rivets instead of 3. I've NEVER seen 4!
The only thing I wonder about is you said 4 rivets instead of 3. I've NEVER seen 4!
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