GreenRiver

I've looked at several fact sheets and have noted the 4 sizes that are offered. Is there an advantage to getting the longest pump possible? I have a 64 cm frame that gives me an adequate space to attach a frame pump on to the top or down tube. Any advice/ideas on this matter will be appreciated. Thanks.

CrimsonKarter21

You'll probably require the longest, however, if you go too long (unlikely in your case) the pump will not be able to compress enough to fit into the frame.

Let me know how you like the pump. I've got a Topeak, but I've been thinkign of goign to a Blackburn or Park Tool. The Park Tool is a one-size pump and can microscope to fit any frame size, or so they say, but being Park, I trust them.

LesterOfPuppets

Yes. The longest pump possible that fits your frame won't fall off your bike as easily as the one the next size down.

CrimsonKarter21

I tie down my pump with an old toe strap, never had a problem.

Homebrew01

I just got the Park Adjustable pump PMP-5. Fits a whole range of sizes. Now I can use it on my mtn bike and road bike. I just measured it and it's 58 cm at full length uncompressed, about 55-56 cm at a decent compression. 48 cm is the small end uncompressed

LesterOfPuppets

Sweet! I used to run toe straps and even doodads on my MTBs where one end of the pump was in those plastic pump pegs.

These days, in the rare nostalgic moment I put a frame pump on my bike, the only addition I have is a ring of inner tube around the bottom rim of the handle, to keep it from rattling against the frame when I hit some 1" aggregate chip seal or the like.

LesterOfPuppets

Now that I've mentioned those little plastic pump pegs, it seems we need some info from the OP.

So, GreenRiver, does your frame have a pump peg? If not, you can get one of those plastic pump pegs, or I've seen some folk use two doo-dads. If you've a frame with long chainstays, there may be room to jam the pump behind the seat tube without the aid of a peg. Make sure you use a retention device with that configuration however, or your pump (and possibly rear wheel and more) could get mangled during an unfortunate pump ejection.

CrimsonKarter21

But how does it work? I'm interested in getting one for my race and training bikes.

GreenRiver

Lester - I'm not familiar with pump pegs. My frame has the threaded holes in the seat and down tubes for bottle cages. Past that, I don't see any other provision for attaching things to the frame. I've noted in other posts the various means used to secure a pump to a frame. Straps - velcro/buckle seem popular. Thanks for the feedback.

Homebrew01

It has angled notches in the handle, and a chevron tab on the body so you can engage at whatever size you need. Clever:

LesterOfPuppets

These are the pump pegs I used to use on my MTBs.

Ever since I got a Morph pump, I rarely use my Zefal HPX3 any more, however. The hose extension, foot peg, guage and flip-out handle make the Morph way nicer to use than ye olde Zefal.

One plus for the Zefal is that it's much more durable.

Ex Pres 

hpX1 - Fits frame size 43.5 to 47.5 cm, actual product size uncompressed 17-3/8 in. compressed 14-1/4 in.

hpX2 - Fits frame size 48 to 53 cm, actual product size uncompressed 20 in. compressed 16 in.

hpX3 - Fits frame size 53.5 to 58.5 cm, actual product size uncompressed 20.5 in. compressed 18 in.

hpX4 - Fits frame size 59 to 64 cm

GreenRiver

I have a Road Morph (with the piggy back mount). I haven't had to put it to practical use yet; only practice sessions at home. I haven't come up with a good tire-pressure result. I'm sure that user-error is a major factor here. I've tried working the thing standing with a foot on the foot-peg. I'm 6'6", so I have to work in a crouched position. I had a slightly better result working from a kneeling position, but still came up well short of getting a tire rideable. I've considered the various HPX techniques that I've read in other posts. This one, offered by The Smokester, seems to make sense to me:

"Might I suggest two possible ideas to handle stem stress with a stick pump? Both rely on not mounting the wheel back onto the bike until the tire is pumped up. One way is to butt the airhole end of the pump against a solid object (like a tree, post, rock) with the stem pointed down, the pump orfice up, and the wheel hanging down from the pump/stem. This prevents the stem from moving back and forth but works best with a stick pump whose end extends out beyond the far edge of the wheel when it is attached to the valve stem. Not all pumps have this property and one must also be careful not to damage the wheel against the immovable object.

Another way is to place the wheel on the ground with the stem at the top. Place one hand on the pump near the valve to hold it as steady as possible (it is impossible to keep it completely immobile) and keep the bottom of the wheel against the ground so that it won't swing like a pendulum. Pump with your other hand. The valve stem will move slightly but because it is free to move back and forth there will be no static forces...Only the slight dynamic ones because you can't hold it absolutely still and this will be enough to reduce the risk of breakage."

LesterOfPuppets

The wheel-on-bike technique I employed with my zefals was to hook my index and middle fingers around the two valve-adjacent spokes and support the end of the pump with them.

The ultimate Road Morph pumping situation I've found is wheel off bike and involves a picnic table. Wheel on bike is no prob for me since I'm a foot shorter than you, likely several lbs lighter and only need 100 psi for a nice ride on my 25s.

CrimsonKarter21

Very cool, does it put in a good amount of air?

Homebrew01

I just tested it for the first time. Seemed fine. I went up to about 80-90 to make sure it worked. I could have gone more, so it should be fine for on-the-road duty. It has an easily reversible plug for shraeder that I didn't try.