Do you solder your cable ends?
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Do you solder your cable ends?
I was wondering if any of you solder your cable ends to keep them from fraying, as opposed to crimping on a little cable tip. I always seem to be out of tips when I'm working on something and I want to ride it right away. I thought soldering might be worth trying. What the history of this practice, pros/cons, etc.? Thanks!
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Soldering the end of a cable will work just fine provided you know what you are doing. The cable end will be prone to oxidize faster, though. Or, clean the end of the cable with epoxy glue and let it set. Or, if you really are in a hurry, just clamp an old spoke nipple over the end until you can get a proper cable end. But why not just ensure that you have twenty or so in a small container in your tool box? I buy these guys a hundred at a time.
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Soldered mine for years, still do on occasion. My technique is to dip the end of the cable in a paste flux, then use a micro torch and a roll of no lead or silver solder. I usually keep plenty of both around because my old houses are plumbed with copper pipes that need repairs.
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#5
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I use heat shrink tubing on my cable ends. Usually, color matched to the frame.
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I have done it and it works fine, though it's definitely the most costly and labour intensive of the alternatives. However, it's also the most effective, looks good and is the only one that is truly permanent besides epoxy. The bonus is that after you learn the skill, which isn't very hard, you can tie and solder your spokes for a real retro look.
Personally, I think epoxy looks the least professional. It's almost as costly and labour intensive as soldering, though it's requires no special skill and has good permanency. Often, you have to cut it off to reroute or replace the cable, though that's not a big deal.
I'm not a fan of electrical tape as it's the least permanent method, though it will do in a pinch.
My preferred alternative to electrical tape is a short piece of small diameter, heat shrink tubing. It's easy to apply, has better permanency and is available in a variety of colours, like electrical tape.
However, I still think the best solution are cable caps.They're inexpensive, quick and easy to install and look professional. Like Randy, I buy a hundred at a time.
Personally, I think epoxy looks the least professional. It's almost as costly and labour intensive as soldering, though it's requires no special skill and has good permanency. Often, you have to cut it off to reroute or replace the cable, though that's not a big deal.
I'm not a fan of electrical tape as it's the least permanent method, though it will do in a pinch.
My preferred alternative to electrical tape is a short piece of small diameter, heat shrink tubing. It's easy to apply, has better permanency and is available in a variety of colours, like electrical tape.
However, I still think the best solution are cable caps.They're inexpensive, quick and easy to install and look professional. Like Randy, I buy a hundred at a time.
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if you are using good cutters and do bend them close to the cut you should be able to get away with out caps atleast long enough to ride to the shop. or are the newer cables that supple that they fray quicker than my beehive on a humid day?
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That is what I do, usually in dark gray. It is very easy to remove if necessary.
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#10
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I use copper tubing available at any hobby or hardware store. I cut it in 3/4 inch lengths slide it on the cable and lightly crimp it on.
If I have to remove it it will slide off fairly easily. You could also use aluminum tubing.
If I have to remove it it will slide off fairly easily. You could also use aluminum tubing.
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I used to solder the ends because I didn't have tips. I guess I'm getting lazy these days so now I just use superglue and then a piece of heat shrink tubing.
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On 50's and 60's bikes I use soft copper tubing. I think it's 1/8th, I get it at the auto parts store, the type used for running oil pressure gauges and such. It's cheap and a couple of feet should last forever and is easy to keep track of. A small tubing cutter leaves a nice finished end and you can open up the cable side with an awl (do this before you cut it so you can hold it). Then just crimp with a wire crimping pliers.
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I use 45% silver brazing wire. I have hundreds of short pieces in too small a diameter to be of any use for working on frames. Then I use a sanding drum to give the tips a bullet shape.
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I solder my ends, and have since I was a teenager. I like the ease of maintenance as much as the super-clean look. Also there's admitedly a certain eliteness mentality to it, I mean you really have to be a bike geek to take the time and effort. You end up with cables that can be pulled, cleaned, and lubed every season though, resulting in cables that will last the life of your bike.
One tip I use is to slightly un-wind the end of the cable before dipping it in the flux, then tightly re-wind with your fingers before soldering. The flux between the strands will really draw the solder up into the cable.
One tip I use is to slightly un-wind the end of the cable before dipping it in the flux, then tightly re-wind with your fingers before soldering. The flux between the strands will really draw the solder up into the cable.
Last edited by poprad; 12-19-09 at 02:21 PM.
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Sometimes yes and sometimes, no. I've never crimped anything on a cable end to prevent fraying although I have used brass tubing and silver solder to make cables for SA shifters. Using cutters designed for cutting cable usually negates the need for doing anything to the cut end. Usually.
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I haven't had any luck soldering stainless cables and I'm not willing to go back to galvanized cables just so I can solder them. I use shrink tubing over epoxy. I stopped lubing cables when I started using lined housing.
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This thread just inspired me to solder my cable ends. I use stainless cables and they seemed to solder fine.
I am now among the ranks of the bicycling elite.
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I solder my cable ends. I use a 160W Weller gun.
Heat shrink tubing is a good 2nd choice.
I don't like crimps as the cable can get too distorted to pull through housing when overhauling a bike. Must toss away a perfectly good cable at times.
Heat shrink tubing is a good 2nd choice.
I don't like crimps as the cable can get too distorted to pull through housing when overhauling a bike. Must toss away a perfectly good cable at times.
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#25
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I've been using cyanoacrylate (Crazy Glue); seems to work OK. I also heat-shrink the ends later, but just for color accent. If I had a soldering gun rather than just an electronics iron, I'd probably solder.