shaving the head tube
#1
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shaving the head tube
Is there a bike shop in NYC that can shave 2-3 mm off the head tube?
I've got a frameset with the fork cut too short. In principle, I could use another fork, but the current one matches the frame... And there is enough meat on the headtube to be shaved off...
appreciate your help guys
I've got a frameset with the fork cut too short. In principle, I could use another fork, but the current one matches the frame... And there is enough meat on the headtube to be shaved off...
appreciate your help guys
#2
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Probably, any of the following 3 shops in Manhattan can.
Bicycle Habitat on Lafayette Street, see Eric S.
NYC bike, on lower 2nd Ave,
Bicycle Rennaissance, on Columbus near 80th, see Shane
You can tell any of them I sent you (the Chain-L guy)
BTW- I'm assuming that you have a 1" threaded system, because 3mm would be meaningless with a threadless headset.
Bicycle Habitat on Lafayette Street, see Eric S.
NYC bike, on lower 2nd Ave,
Bicycle Rennaissance, on Columbus near 80th, see Shane
You can tell any of them I sent you (the Chain-L guy)
BTW- I'm assuming that you have a 1" threaded system, because 3mm would be meaningless with a threadless headset.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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Usually head cups are pressed into grease, and the grease fillet at the edge hides everything anyway.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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thanks guys for the replies.
the material is steel. It is a lugged frame with stainless polished lugs, so paint is not an issue. The lugs have enough meat as i said, so I think 3 mm can be taken off without worries..
the fork is 1'' threadless, but it is cut so short that now its 33mm above the headset (the current headset is cane creek s2 with 27mm stack hight). All stems that I know have 40mm or more of stack hight, so the difference is too big -- 7mm. I was hoping to make it 4-5mm.
What do you think?
the material is steel. It is a lugged frame with stainless polished lugs, so paint is not an issue. The lugs have enough meat as i said, so I think 3 mm can be taken off without worries..
the fork is 1'' threadless, but it is cut so short that now its 33mm above the headset (the current headset is cane creek s2 with 27mm stack hight). All stems that I know have 40mm or more of stack hight, so the difference is too big -- 7mm. I was hoping to make it 4-5mm.
What do you think?
#8
Banned
A threadless conversion is possible. BBB has part # BHP 20,
its a quill, aluminum , fluted, 22.2 diameter.
which includes shims with locking keyway, to prevent rotation.
And a special center bolt, the clever bit, it pulls up the wedge,
then it uses internal thread in the bolt head,
to screw the bolt for the pre load cap.
[then you use the 1">9/8" shim that comes with the stem.]
BBB a NL company distributes thru Bike Mine, in OKC, OK. so bike mine account at shop needed.
I finally found their 9/8" version thru R&E in Seattle.. for my too short a steerer situation.
more kludgy but will work , steel tube quill,
then clamp new stem around it,
for the adjustment a removable expansion plug,
lets you access the wedge bolt,
a star nut would have to be trashed to take it out.
[EZ enough to do, they come apart , I trashed mine to do the repair above.]
its a quill, aluminum , fluted, 22.2 diameter.
which includes shims with locking keyway, to prevent rotation.
And a special center bolt, the clever bit, it pulls up the wedge,
then it uses internal thread in the bolt head,
to screw the bolt for the pre load cap.
[then you use the 1">9/8" shim that comes with the stem.]
BBB a NL company distributes thru Bike Mine, in OKC, OK. so bike mine account at shop needed.
I finally found their 9/8" version thru R&E in Seattle.. for my too short a steerer situation.
more kludgy but will work , steel tube quill,
then clamp new stem around it,
for the adjustment a removable expansion plug,
lets you access the wedge bolt,
a star nut would have to be trashed to take it out.
[EZ enough to do, they come apart , I trashed mine to do the repair above.]
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-28-11 at 09:50 AM.
#10
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2-3mm is alot of materiel to remove with a facing tool. that is designed only to ensure both ends are parrallel. did you try ab HS with a shorter stack height?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#11
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This is a simple straightforward job, that shouldn't harm the tools or the bike. Don't make it more complicated than it is.
I've been selling cutting tools for these kinds of jobs to shops and builders for almost 40 years.
Normally lugged steel frames would be brazed with the headtube extending beyond the tops of the lugs by quite a bit. After brazing the excess would be rough cut off, then the top and bottom cleaned up with a rough file, and the frame painted. Then the mill would be used to finish the job, usually removing about 1mm from each side, prior to pressing in the headset.
Used this way, the mill would last 200-500 frames, (both sides), so we're talking about milling a cumulative 400-1,000mm through the life of a single grind, and usually the reamer would wear faster than the facing mill.
If the OP cannot get the job done at any of the dealers I suggested, he can PM me and I'll do it for him at a reasonable price
I've been selling cutting tools for these kinds of jobs to shops and builders for almost 40 years.
Normally lugged steel frames would be brazed with the headtube extending beyond the tops of the lugs by quite a bit. After brazing the excess would be rough cut off, then the top and bottom cleaned up with a rough file, and the frame painted. Then the mill would be used to finish the job, usually removing about 1mm from each side, prior to pressing in the headset.
Used this way, the mill would last 200-500 frames, (both sides), so we're talking about milling a cumulative 400-1,000mm through the life of a single grind, and usually the reamer would wear faster than the facing mill.
If the OP cannot get the job done at any of the dealers I suggested, he can PM me and I'll do it for him at a reasonable price
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 04-28-11 at 08:16 PM.
#12
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#13
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And he works at an LBS, buyer beware!
Last edited by Mr IGH; 04-29-11 at 06:03 AM.
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