HoraceLai

I am very very new to tandem riding. I borrowed a tandem from a friend, and then decided to buy my own. I think it is 1994 Nashbar 1000RT and it is not in the best condition

One thing I noticed is that the rear wheel has spokes that are not completely straight. From the rim to the hub, it starts off at a vertical angle, and then bends towards the hub in a not so gradual way. I am not sure if this is an issue. But if it is, I might as well get a new wheel.

What are the differences between a wheel for a tandem bike vs. a regular bike? Anything I should note for?

I googled this topic and it seems like most tandems have rear spacing of around 145. However, mine is only 135mm. I was wondering if that would limit me in any way.

nfmisso

Hi Horace;

Tandem wheels tend to be built stronger with more and stronger spokes.

Are you sure that it is 135mm OLD ? 140mm is more likely.

You should also decide, what if any upgrades you want to do. Do you want to keep 7 speed rear?

Wheels are the most expensive components on a bike.

If the hub and rim are in good shape, I would rebuild the wheel, not replace. In San Jose, there are several people that will build a wheel for $25- plus materials. For one wheel: spokes will run $25- to $50-; nipples another $10-; rim from $35 to $100 (or more); rear hubs range from $35; to $200 and way up. Wheel build labor ranges from $25- to $100- depending.

What is your budget?

HoraceLai

Hi Nigel,

Just double checked the dimensions with my budget caliper. It is 135mm OLD. I should also add that the wheel has 36 spokes.

I think a rebuild is probably the choice for my budget. By that do you mean just replacing the spokes and nipples? I do have my own wheel truing stand so I save money on the labor.

My biggest concern is the nature of this wheel. I'm hearing and seeing numbers usually bigger for tandem wheels with 140+mm OLD and 40+ spokes. What spoke dimension would you recommend for a rebuild?

I think the 7spd rear is enough. However, while taking apart the chain rings I noticed many of them seem overly worn. I think I will keep everything the way it is for now. My biggest concern is safety.

austex

A bit more info would help. Is the current wheel 26" or 700C or ?? What size tire would you want to run? Team weight? Can you upload a pic of the spoke bend?

Tandem rear wheels are generally a bit beefier than regular bikes. Higher loading is obvious, but the stoker often cannot "unload" timely or fully over road bumps/obstructions. Thirty six spokes can be fine for a lighter, tandem-savvier team, particularly with 26" rims. Fatter tires and a suspension stoker seatpost can help, too. 135mm OLD can give you more flexibility on hub choice, as that is the current mountain bike standard, and there are plenty of tough, affordable hubs; the reason for wider OLD on tandems is that the resulting wheel has less "dish" and less difference in spoke tension between right and left sides.

Tom

tandem rider

Friends of mine had a 1995 Nashbar tandem which had single walled rims. If you use the same rims make sure they are double walled. Stiff rims build a stronger wheel therefor if your rims are not stiff build with new rims. If this is a low milage "around the block" tandem then using the old rim and hub may work. If you plan to ride the tandem more I would consider new wheels. The rear wheel on a tandem is often the weak link.

Sheldon

Carbonfiberboy 

It sounds like the rim was either drilled vertically instead of the drilling being angled toward the hub flange like in better rims, or the wheel was built backwards, with the spokes heading for the wrong flange. Either way, that can result in broken spokes. Or not. I'd ride it until something goes wrong.

I think it simplest to have conventional tandem wheels built, rather than buying a complete wheel. Many of us like Velocity Deep-V rims, suitable for tires up to 28c or 32c wide. Dyads are popular for people who want wider tires. There are other good tandem rims. You have hubs. Easy to have the hubs overhauled, replace rims and spokes. Or not.

HoraceLai

Sorry for the late reply. Been busy. I hope these pictures are good.

The bike will be used for "around the city/town". For anything further I will want a rebuilt or new wheel. Rim is 700C.

Team body weight is around 110kg. Cargo weight I would guess that you guys have more experience.

Tom Spohn

OK, now we see the pictures and it looks like drilling is not so much of a problem as is the spoke length. The spokes appear to be too long! I'll bet that there is very little tension on the wheel and the bike feels reall slippery around corners--maybe even causing brake rubbing. If this is so a wheel rebuild with the right spokes should solve the problem.

Carbonfiberboy 

Why do you think they're too long, Tom? Eyeletted box rim. I guess a rim like that just builds up with that kink in the spokes at the nipple? Haven't had a rim like that since I've known much about bikes. I have a friend who's broken spokes with a rim like that, but these spokes look plenty heavy. It is weird that the spokes have kinks in them besides the bend at the nipple. Some kind of shipping or storage damage? Taking them to a LBS with a tension meter might be a good start.