Both crank arms stripped and frozen
#1
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Both crank arms stripped and frozen
So, am I encountering the proverbial immovable object?
I picked up an MB-2 last weekend and began to disassemble it last night. I discovered that the crank threads were already pretty far gone and I stripped them the rest of the way trying to get them off. I wouldn't be surprised if the spindle is also frozen.
Am I at the point of having to cut off the arms or spindle? Other reasonable options? If I have to cut, what's the best way, a Dremel?
Thanks,
RFC
I picked up an MB-2 last weekend and began to disassemble it last night. I discovered that the crank threads were already pretty far gone and I stripped them the rest of the way trying to get them off. I wouldn't be surprised if the spindle is also frozen.
Am I at the point of having to cut off the arms or spindle? Other reasonable options? If I have to cut, what's the best way, a Dremel?
Thanks,
RFC
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Of course I'd say Dremel - with a fiber cutting wheel. It'll still be a bit of work, though
Good luck!
DD
Good luck!
DD
#3
You gonna eat that?
I had a date with twins once. Ended up something like that
If you can borrow a gear puller from an auto parts store, you may be able to pull the cranks off with that.
If you can borrow a gear puller from an auto parts store, you may be able to pull the cranks off with that.
#4
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I used a ball joint removal tool (pickle fork) to remove a stripped crank arm, worked great. Autozone will loan one at no charge.
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Pulley, or gear puller should work. Cutting them off with a Dremel is going to be a messy, hard job. But it'll work.
Auto Zone might loan you one of these too. Two jaw version recommended.
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...y%20Toolsmv=rr
Auto Zone might loan you one of these too. Two jaw version recommended.
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...y%20Toolsmv=rr
Last edited by rootboy; 01-24-13 at 03:19 PM.
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baseball bat.
Just get the frame set up somewhere nice and soft, preferably on grass and wack with baseball bat or other wooden bat like object. you might want to put some lubricant in there and let it soak in first. So far I have removed many cranks this way and not damaged any frames. I have tried the cutting and riding around with it loose, but always have to resort to the bat.
Just get the frame set up somewhere nice and soft, preferably on grass and wack with baseball bat or other wooden bat like object. you might want to put some lubricant in there and let it soak in first. So far I have removed many cranks this way and not damaged any frames. I have tried the cutting and riding around with it loose, but always have to resort to the bat.
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Is it feasible to tap out the threads to a larger dimension? Like the old Stronglight threads?
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I have had success this way - Secure one crank arm in a bench vise. Put a steel pipe (about 3' long) over the other crank, and rock it back and forth.
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I had a 1st generation C-record crank become fused to a spindle. My first attempt to remove the ds crank stripped the threads, then I bent one of the spiders using a gear puller (borrowed free of charge from AutoZone), then bent the spiders some more (using a different model gear-puller borrowed from Kragen Auto Parts). From there, I had to saw it off with a hack saw. It took about 20 minutes with a hack saw while I fought back tears. From an emotional standpoint, it was like cutting off a gangrened finger.
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Last edited by gaucho777; 01-24-13 at 04:07 PM.
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I can see this is leaning toward brute force rather than subtlety. Whatever works. I think I'd be tempted to beat it with a mallet too.
But I have gear pullers.
But I have gear pullers.
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Dry ice would be better, as the aluminum shrinks at a greater rate than the steel spindle. You'd probably still need to whack at it though.
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Heat should help, but it will still require some force. (Dry ice would shrink the arm more tightly onto the steel spindle.) Perhaps heat in conjunction with a gear puller. Some more discussion with various options (both destructive and non-destructive) for removal here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hat-BB-out-now
I would not recommend simply whacking it with a big mallet, for fear of damaging the frame and/or BB.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hat-BB-out-now
I would not recommend simply whacking it with a big mallet, for fear of damaging the frame and/or BB.
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
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That's how it fell out when I first got my Trek commuter; the PO had apparently neglected it for years... The drive side came off with a little effort, but the left (& the spindle) were frozen in place & had to be sawed off before I could pull the BB.
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I have a snap on gear puller set that will pull those off in a jiffy. Too bad you're in AZ.
#24
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I've done this dozens of times at the co-op with the pickle fork. I'm sure the thing has paid for itself many times over with all the scrap aluminum I've saved. Get a 4lb beater and every crankarm in a 20km radius will tremble.
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Pickle fork and a BFH i've never incountered a crankarm that doesnt come off this way