Durable 20+24 spoke hoops
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Durable 20+24 spoke hoops
I plan on building a set of wheels using some 20+24 hole hubs I already own, and I'm looking for some durable hoops that are readily available.
Most likely I'll go with Kinlin XR-270 hoops, but I'm open to other ideas. 23mm wide hoops are not an option due to clearance issues.
Any suggestions?
Most likely I'll go with Kinlin XR-270 hoops, but I'm open to other ideas. 23mm wide hoops are not an option due to clearance issues.
Any suggestions?
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I plan on building a set of wheels using some 20+24 hole hubs I already own, and I'm looking for some durable hoops that are readily available.
Most likely I'll go with Kinlin XR-270 hoops, but I'm open to other ideas. 23mm wide hoops are not an option due to clearance issues.
Any suggestions?
Most likely I'll go with Kinlin XR-270 hoops, but I'm open to other ideas. 23mm wide hoops are not an option due to clearance issues.
Any suggestions?
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No, it's for my primary road bike(2007 Pedal Force RS). When I run Stan's Alpha 340 + 23mm Michelin Pro4 tires, there's not much room at the chainstays.
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I've been using Kinlin 270 hoops for well over 70k miles, and they've been great. It's just time to replace them due to wear, and I don't want to overlook another option.
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Actually, spokes are the one thing you likely ought to replace along with the rim. They are the most likely part of the wheel to break. They fatigue. I wouldn't rebuild a pair of hubs with old spokes after so many miles. Truthfully, if I had a pair of wheels that old, that had served me that well, I would just retire them and keep them around for emergency spares. I think you deserve all new.
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I'm not sure what the problem is with "not much room". If the tire doesn't actually touch, then it doesn't matter. As they say, "Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades."
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Actually, spokes are the one thing you likely ought to replace along with the rim. They are the most likely part of the wheel to break. They fatigue. I wouldn't rebuild a pair of hubs with old spokes after so many miles. Truthfully, if I had a pair of wheels that old, that had served me that well, I would just retire them and keep them around for emergency spares. I think you deserve all new.
If I start having issues, I'll replace them.
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Quality spokes built into wheels with sufficiently high tension that have been properly stress relieved last over 300,000 miles when not nicked by an over-shifted chain.
Given compatible ERDs the right move is to remove tension, tape the new rim next to the old, lubricate the sockets (I like to cut half the bristle length off an acid brush with anti-seize), and move spokes over one at a time taking the opportunity to re-lubricate the threads.
I still ride the first set of wheels I built 15-16 years ago with the second front rim, second or third rear, all original DT Competition 2.0/1.8 spokes in the rear drive side and DT 2.0/1.5 Revolutions elsewhere, and original alloy nipples apart from the several I made trapezoidal with an incompletely seated spoke wrench in a road side repair at night after bending a rim on an obstacle.
They are the most likely part of the wheel to break.
They fatigue although the cycles survived are a function of average stress and magnitude of the variation. When you take the entire elbow past its elastic limit through stress relieving the average stress is low and they go a very long time.
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Actually, spokes are the one thing you likely ought to replace along with the rim. They are the most likely part of the wheel to break. They fatigue. I wouldn't rebuild a pair of hubs with old spokes after so many miles. Truthfully, if I had a pair of wheels that old, that had served me that well, I would just retire them and keep them around for emergency spares. I think you deserve all new.
Edit: I have never recycled spokes but I just read Drew Eckhardt's post on this. I just figure they're relatively cheap and I prefer to replace them. But maybe he's right.
Last edited by bikemig; 08-31-13 at 11:55 AM.
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Spokes are one thing you don't want to replace.
Quality spokes built into wheels with sufficiently high tension that have been properly stress relieved last over 300,000 miles when not nicked by an over-shifted chain.
Given compatible ERDs the right move is to remove tension, tape the new rim next to the old, lubricate the sockets (I like to cut half the bristle length off an acid brush with anti-seize), and move spokes over one at a time taking the opportunity to re-lubricate the threads.
I still ride the first set of wheels I built 15-16 years ago with the second front rim, second or third rear, all original DT Competition 2.0/1.8 spokes in the rear drive side and DT 2.0/1.5 Revolutions elsewhere, and original alloy nipples apart from the several I made trapezoidal with an incompletely seated spoke wrench in a road side repair at night after bending a rim on an obstacle.
Quality spokes in a well built wheel are likely to outlive you and everything else in the wheel except perhaps the hub shells.
They fatigue although the cycles survived are a function of average stress and magnitude of the variation. When you take the entire elbow past its elastic limit through stress relieving the average stress is low and they go a very long time.
Quality spokes built into wheels with sufficiently high tension that have been properly stress relieved last over 300,000 miles when not nicked by an over-shifted chain.
Given compatible ERDs the right move is to remove tension, tape the new rim next to the old, lubricate the sockets (I like to cut half the bristle length off an acid brush with anti-seize), and move spokes over one at a time taking the opportunity to re-lubricate the threads.
I still ride the first set of wheels I built 15-16 years ago with the second front rim, second or third rear, all original DT Competition 2.0/1.8 spokes in the rear drive side and DT 2.0/1.5 Revolutions elsewhere, and original alloy nipples apart from the several I made trapezoidal with an incompletely seated spoke wrench in a road side repair at night after bending a rim on an obstacle.
Quality spokes in a well built wheel are likely to outlive you and everything else in the wheel except perhaps the hub shells.
They fatigue although the cycles survived are a function of average stress and magnitude of the variation. When you take the entire elbow past its elastic limit through stress relieving the average stress is low and they go a very long time.
You have to tension the spokes well again on this second build. What you did the first time doesn't count any more. So why not start with fresh spokes having their full fatigue life ahead of them instead of an unknown quantity? I can see you might enjoy congratulating yourself from time to time about how long your spokes have lasted (Please take no offense. I do that all the time.), but what is that really worth against the higher risk of a broken spoke?
BTW, notice the word "Durable" in the title of this thread.
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