skagitteam

All--

Second in my series of "what do I do with my custom frame" questions, here is one concerning cable routing for road disc brakes.

I'm determined to install disc brakes on the new bike. I know there is controversy about them but that issue is heavily discussed in other threads. I don't have the cash to go road hydro right now, so I'm installing cable-actuated discs for the time being, probably TRP Spyres. However, I'm struggling with what cable routing to select, because it seems likely that I will want to go hydro in the next couple of years as prices come down.

Could one route the cables now such that conversion to hydro lines is not a problem? It strikes me that regular cable stops won't work because they are not intended to let the housing run through. I suppose I could run internal cable routing through the top tube (with solid housing inside) and straight housing from there. Any other ideas?

In anticipation of the "ask your builder" responses, I should note that I'm working with a chinese custom titanium builder. So the design is all on me. This whole thing is a bit experimental, but I'm having a great time working out these sorts of issues and really appreciate any thoughts that you folks have about this.

Cheers.

joejack951

I believe the easy answer is to run full length housing for the rear brake. Secure with zip ties or clips. When you switch to hydraulics, replace cable housing with hydraulic tubing.

You can still run the rear brake housing through the top tube with this arrangement. I have a LOOK carbon frame from the mid-2000's that uses this arrangement. You'll only need ties/clips along the seat/chain stay (depending on where you mount the disc).

I may just be repeating what you've already said but I'm not certain so here you go

TommyBing

Factory Ree Fu Wong Commercial Fish Paste, Fungicide, Apple Processing Plant and Titanium Bike Works #17 .

I hear the build SICK bikes!!!

skagitteam

Thanks JoeJack951--that is just what I was suggesting but it is still helpful to hear your thoughts.

FBinNY 

You can have the bile built for the hydraulic lines you plan on in the future, and use zip ties for now.

Wordbiker

Another option is using standard split stops and adding these for hydraulic lines later:

DX-MAN

I'll be a bit surprised to see hydro prices come down very much; I looked at them for my Kona MTB, and can still bring home a more-than-adequate BB7 setup for 1/3 of a hydro. Going by MSRP, few hydro systems are under $200/wheel -- at least that I would trust.

commo_soulja

I had my old ti Ibis converted to disc from V-brake set up and refinished by Steve Potts. He lopped of the old cable stops & canti studs and added saddle type cable stops and an IS disc mount.

https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/c...ion&key=CS0110

ortomhuli

You can have the bile built for the hydraulic lines you plan on in the future, and use zip ties for now.

skagitteam

Commo_soulja--Can I ask how much this cost? Seems like a really elegant solution but I suspect it wasn't cheap.

commo_soulja

When all was said and done it was $700 not including shipping and paypal fees. It was well worth the conversion in my opinion as it breathed life into an old titanium frame and when I got it back it was like a brand new bike.

Since you're getting a brand new frame with the options you order, it'd be well worth it. Definitely get the saddle type cable stops - run full housing if you go cable disc brakes and it's compatible with full hydro brake hose.

skagitteam

I'm new to discs and didn't even know such stops existed. I will do that for sure if the builder is able. Thanks so much for the ideas.

skagitteam

Just to follow up on this comment--I'm not aware of any road hydro brake/shifter system currently on the market that isn't vastly more expensive than $200, but I may just be out of the loop.