Breaking in new Brooks Professional saddle -- don't worry, not another how to inquiry
#1
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Breaking in new Brooks Professional saddle -- don't worry, not another how to inquiry
Santa brought me a Brooks pro saddle for Christmas, which will go on my 87 Schwinn Paramount if an when I ever get the frame back from the painter (long story, that, which I will detail in another thread when I get frame back allegedly this week).
Having read that Brooks Pros are somewhat difficult to break in, I put it on another bike to start the process so it would be ready to go when I get the Paramount back. Going into the process, here is what I learned about breaking in leather saddles before I started based on the many threads on the subject:
Ok, I am being facetious here, point is, lots of conflicting advice out there. What I did was apply proofide to the top of saddle right out of the box and then again after the first long ride. I also applied a light treatment of baseball glove conditioner to the underside before and after the first long ride to help accelerate the process. The first 40 miles was pretty hard on the ole sits bones but not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I am just shy of 100 miles into the process at this point and the saddle has begun to yield to my 200 lb ass (30 miles this morning with no soreness) so things are looking good.
To paraphrase the old tootsie pop commercials...how many rides does it take to break in a Brooks Pro?...a 1, a 2, a 3 (crunch)...3 (probably 4) good long rides and I am going to say somewhere between 100-200 miles ought to have me pretty comfy.
Having read that Brooks Pros are somewhat difficult to break in, I put it on another bike to start the process so it would be ready to go when I get the Paramount back. Going into the process, here is what I learned about breaking in leather saddles before I started based on the many threads on the subject:
- I should only use proofide on the saddle, except if I want to break in the saddle because proofide only protects, it doesn't help with break in.
- I should wet the saddle with damp cloth but I should never wet the saddle
- I should use neatfoots oil or baseball conditioner to help soften the leather but never use oil or conditioners on the leather
- I should soak the saddle in oil but if I use oil I should apply it lightly, never soak
- Heat the leather but whatever you do dont heat the leather.
- Edited to add...oh and Vaseline, you should use Vaseline as long as you never use Vaseline or other petroleum based products.
Ok, I am being facetious here, point is, lots of conflicting advice out there. What I did was apply proofide to the top of saddle right out of the box and then again after the first long ride. I also applied a light treatment of baseball glove conditioner to the underside before and after the first long ride to help accelerate the process. The first 40 miles was pretty hard on the ole sits bones but not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I am just shy of 100 miles into the process at this point and the saddle has begun to yield to my 200 lb ass (30 miles this morning with no soreness) so things are looking good.
To paraphrase the old tootsie pop commercials...how many rides does it take to break in a Brooks Pro?...a 1, a 2, a 3 (crunch)...3 (probably 4) good long rides and I am going to say somewhere between 100-200 miles ought to have me pretty comfy.
Last edited by DOS; 01-21-14 at 07:11 AM.
#2
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2019 Salsa Warbird
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2019 Salsa Warbird
#3
Senior Member
At the 500 mile mark the new saddle will have reformed your rear end.
You should be good to go after that.
You should be good to go after that.
#5
aka Tom Reingold
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For what it's worth, I never do anything to my saddles, and because that's what I think is best. I'm just lazy. In theory, you could convince me that I could double the life with better care, but as things are, they're lasting very, very long. I recommend the do-nothing plan.
How does it feel so far?
How does it feel so far?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6
Senior Member
Santa brought me a Brooks pro saddle for Christmas, which will go on my 87 Schwinn Paramount if an when I ever get the frame back from the painter (long story, that, which I will detail in another thread when I get frame back allegedly this week).
Having read that Brooks Pros are somewhat difficult to break in, I put it on another bike to start the process so it would be ready to go when I get the Paramount back. Going into the process, here is what I learned about breaking in leather saddles before I started based on the many threads on the subject:
Ok, I am being facetious here, point is, lots of conflicting advice out there. What I did was apply proofide to the top of saddle right out of the box and then again after the first long ride. I also applied a light treatment of baseball glove conditioner to the underside before and after the first long ride to help accelerate the process. The first 40 miles was pretty hard on the ole sits bones but not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I am just shy of 100 miles into the process at this point and the saddle has begun to yield to my 200 lb ass (30 miles this morning with no soreness) so things are looking good.
To paraphrase the old tootsie pop commercials...how many rides does it take to break in a Brooks Pro?...a 1, a 2, a 3 (crunch)...3 (probably 4) good long rides and I am going to say somewhere between 100-200 miles ought to have me pretty comfy.
Having read that Brooks Pros are somewhat difficult to break in, I put it on another bike to start the process so it would be ready to go when I get the Paramount back. Going into the process, here is what I learned about breaking in leather saddles before I started based on the many threads on the subject:
- I should only use proofide on the saddle, except if I want to break in the saddle because proofide only protects, it doesn't help with break in.
- I should wet the saddle with damp cloth but I should never wet the saddle
- I should use neatfoots oil or baseball conditioner to help soften the leather but never use oil or conditioners on the leather
- I should soak the saddle in oil but if I use oil I should apply it lightly, never soak
- Heat the leather but whatever you do dont heat the leather.
Ok, I am being facetious here, point is, lots of conflicting advice out there. What I did was apply proofide to the top of saddle right out of the box and then again after the first long ride. I also applied a light treatment of baseball glove conditioner to the underside before and after the first long ride to help accelerate the process. The first 40 miles was pretty hard on the ole sits bones but not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I am just shy of 100 miles into the process at this point and the saddle has begun to yield to my 200 lb ass (30 miles this morning with no soreness) so things are looking good.
To paraphrase the old tootsie pop commercials...how many rides does it take to break in a Brooks Pro?...a 1, a 2, a 3 (crunch)...3 (probably 4) good long rides and I am going to say somewhere between 100-200 miles ought to have me pretty comfy.
That was quite likely the only thing you needed to do.
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
#8
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#9
self propelled lifer
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I've tried breaking in Brooks saddles over the Winter on the trainer but have found that they never really break in until you start riding them in hot weather and spend hours on your saddle when it's sweat soaked.
#10
Senior Member
I don't know who that is but what confirmed it for me was when my dad got his Brooks middle of last year, put one coat of proofhide on it and started riding. Broke in just as expected.
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2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
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#11
Senior Member
I always just Proofide them a couple of times early on, then only occasionally (maybe once or twice a year) after that. I'm convinced that Brooks saddles aren't quite as delicate as the internet would have me believe.
#12
~>~
" A new saddle should be treated with Brooks Proofide leather dressing to help assist the ‘breaking-in’ process.
Proofide keeps the leather supple as it is specially formulated from natural ingredients to condition, preserve and shower proof your saddle. Proofide is the only substance that should be used to care for your Brooks Leather Saddle.
Apply a little Proofide to the finished side of the leather. Allow the Proofide to permeate until dry and then polish off.
Proofide should be used several times during the ‘breaking-in’ period and every 3-6 months thereafter.
On bicycles not fitted with mudguards, an initial application to the underside of the saddle will be beneficial, this needs not to be polished off.
The leather gets its colour during the tanning process and it is possible, therefore, that some colour residues will remain. It is recommended to polish the saddle with a soft cloth before first use."
https://www.brooksengland.com/
Proofide keeps the leather supple as it is specially formulated from natural ingredients to condition, preserve and shower proof your saddle. Proofide is the only substance that should be used to care for your Brooks Leather Saddle.
Apply a little Proofide to the finished side of the leather. Allow the Proofide to permeate until dry and then polish off.
Proofide should be used several times during the ‘breaking-in’ period and every 3-6 months thereafter.
On bicycles not fitted with mudguards, an initial application to the underside of the saddle will be beneficial, this needs not to be polished off.
The leather gets its colour during the tanning process and it is possible, therefore, that some colour residues will remain. It is recommended to polish the saddle with a soft cloth before first use."
https://www.brooksengland.com/
#13
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I just ride my Brooks' until they fit my rear.
After a few hundred miles, I find myself checking out what saddle is on the bike first, before I take out the bike. I know any bike I have with a Brooks will be more comfortable that afternoon than other bikes I have with the split, anatomically correct, gel saddles.
I use proofhide a couple of times, maybe, (sparingly) per year to protect the saddle - not necessarily help with break in.
Truthfully - I don't notice that much of a difference between pre and post break in - especially if it is a beautiful day.
That is my goal with any saddle - be comfortable enough to not notice it!
After a few hundred miles, I find myself checking out what saddle is on the bike first, before I take out the bike. I know any bike I have with a Brooks will be more comfortable that afternoon than other bikes I have with the split, anatomically correct, gel saddles.
I use proofhide a couple of times, maybe, (sparingly) per year to protect the saddle - not necessarily help with break in.
Truthfully - I don't notice that much of a difference between pre and post break in - especially if it is a beautiful day.
That is my goal with any saddle - be comfortable enough to not notice it!
#14
Senior Member
At this point in time my only advice would be, do what you think is best. Opinions on caring for a Brooks saddle are like ??? holes, everybody has one, LOL. I do realize no advice was asked for.
Last edited by Bruce Enns; 01-19-14 at 01:32 PM.
#15
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I just use mink oil on my Brooks Team Professional. Both sides of the saddle. Then I just rode it. Best saddle in the world.
#16
aka Phil Jungels
I choose to follow Brooks' suggestions, regarding break in, on my leather saddles.
It's a lot of work to get the proper stiffness to the leather. I don't choose to apply anything to soften it, as it's no recommended. Softening/conditioning it will make it stretch faster.
My Brooks has thousands of comfortable miles on it, and it still looks like new.
MHO
It's a lot of work to get the proper stiffness to the leather. I don't choose to apply anything to soften it, as it's no recommended. Softening/conditioning it will make it stretch faster.
My Brooks has thousands of comfortable miles on it, and it still looks like new.
MHO
#17
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#18
Manufacturer's instructions? Those are for suckers .
" A new saddle should be treated with Brooks Proofide leather dressing to help assist the ‘breaking-in’ process.
Proofide keeps the leather supple as it is specially formulated from natural ingredients to condition, preserve and shower proof your saddle. Proofide is the only substance that should be used to care for your Brooks Leather Saddle.
Apply a little Proofide to the finished side of the leather. Allow the Proofide to permeate until dry and then polish off.
Proofide should be used several times during the ‘breaking-in’ period and every 3-6 months thereafter.
On bicycles not fitted with mudguards, an initial application to the underside of the saddle will be beneficial, this needs not to be polished off.
The leather gets its colour during the tanning process and it is possible, therefore, that some colour residues will remain. It is recommended to polish the saddle with a soft cloth before first use."
https://www.brooksengland.com/
Proofide keeps the leather supple as it is specially formulated from natural ingredients to condition, preserve and shower proof your saddle. Proofide is the only substance that should be used to care for your Brooks Leather Saddle.
Apply a little Proofide to the finished side of the leather. Allow the Proofide to permeate until dry and then polish off.
Proofide should be used several times during the ‘breaking-in’ period and every 3-6 months thereafter.
On bicycles not fitted with mudguards, an initial application to the underside of the saddle will be beneficial, this needs not to be polished off.
The leather gets its colour during the tanning process and it is possible, therefore, that some colour residues will remain. It is recommended to polish the saddle with a soft cloth before first use."
https://www.brooksengland.com/
Last edited by ricebowl; 01-19-14 at 07:53 PM.
#19
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I used Berthoud's "Graisse speciale pour L'entretien des selles en cuir" on the top and bottom of my Brooks Imperial last year.......So far,..... no asplosion!
#20
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#21
Senior Member
That, and ride. Plenty of riding. I'd not use any more glove conditioner, though; those types of products soften leather by breaking down the fibers. That's fine for a glove, but a saddle must be able to support your weight. If the fibers break down too much, the saddle will sag and eventually fail.
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#23
Senior Member
If the rider has a real big fat sweaty bottom, then a few miles should break it in nicely. Or if the rider is a bean pole, maybe a few thousand miles will do it.....
#25
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