Gresp15C

Looks like I've got to crack open my early 60's AW hub, and the route for getting in is to unscrew the big bearing cup on the drive side. St. Sheldon says to use a hammer an punch. Question: What's the best way to hang on to the hub shell while doing the hammer-and-punch thing? I'd much rather not have to unstring the wheel if I can avoid it.

Symptom: I can't get into the middle or low gears -- those are disengaged and the pedals just spin.

cny-bikeman

Just clamp the non-drive side of the axle in a vise and hold the wheel (tire on) against yourself.

Here's a good video - British, even. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc

Bandera

Brace the wheel vertical, getting it into a corner of your shop will help, lean down w/ punch and tap w/ hammer if you don't have a bench vise.
Follow Sheldon Brown's overhaul instructions and ready for another few decades of service.
Harris Cycle will have any parts you need.

-Bandera

Dan Burkhart 

If the hub is laced into the wheel, leave it that way. It's much easier to loosen the ball ring if it's still in the wheel. No advantage to having it out of the wheel.
The hammer and punch approach is as good a way as any to unscrew the ball ring.
here's a good video from England showing disassembly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc
And, why should I pass up an opportunity for self promotion, here's one of my videos that might also be of help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6v5K-2zWMI
BUT, before you crack it open, ensure shifter adjustment is correct. Might be worth while doing a solvent flush, drain and oil lube to see if that resolves the issue.

Gresp15C

Thanks! I will watch those videos. Meanwhile, another question: Given that the hub has probably never been serviced, is it likely that I'm going to be fighting against rusted threads, or does the oil bath take care of that? Should I apply penetrating oil and wait?

Now, to find a corner in my shop that isn't full of bikes.

Dan Burkhart 

Rusted threads are not usually an issue getting the ball ring out, but if it's been in an environment that promotes rust, it could happen.
It will likely be torqued in pretty tight though as the hub's internals transmit the torque to the ball ring in 2nd and 3rd gear,tightening the threads with every pedal stroke.

loubapache

There are some excellent suggestions already.

So first to check the cable adjustment.

If the internals are a bit gummed up, you can loosen/remove the non-drive side locknut/cone. Then put the wheel/hub horizontally over some container (coffee can), non-drive side up. Then pour solvent or WD40 into the inside of the unit. The coffee can will catch the drip. Repeat a few times over a couple of days.

If you do have to remove the ball ring, just put the wheel down on the floor, drive side up. Then use your foot to step on the wheel/tire to hold it in place. I ground down a pedal spindle as the punch to fit the slots better.

Gresp15C

Hey, you guys are great! It was not nearly as scary as I had always assumed (famous last words, before trying to re-assemble). The threads were stripped out of the axle key! Now I've always been gentle with it, and never fully tightened it -- I think the rule is to feed it all the way in, then come back out a 1/2 turn. I may have a spare (a failed SA coaster brake hub of the same vintage), but if not it's off to the LBS or to Harris Cyclery.

cny-bikeman

Yes, you turn the indicator rod all the way in, then unscrew enough to orient it toward the cable (which will always be 1/2 turn or less).

Gresp15C

Another revelation: With the threads stripped on the axle key, I suspected damage to the indicator rod as well. Sure enough those threads are damaged as well.

Part is on its way from Harris, and re-assembly must be deferred anyway because I was held to an oath that I would not go any further unless my kids can watch.

Gresp15C

Fixed.

Thank goodness my kids were watching. One of the pawl springs went flying, and miraculously, my daughter found it on the messy garage floor.

I think I know how I ruined the original axle key. I had the cones set up the wrong way, so the key was bottoming out in the axle in 1st gear. I had to pull pretty hard on the cable to keep it from slipping out of 1st. Now that I followed the correct advice, I can follow the S-A instructions for setting the indicator chain, and it stays in 1st even though I can still pull it a little bit further out. Thus I know it's not bottoming out any more. Then I checked my other S-A hub to make sure it's OK too.

Thanks to everybody for the helpful advice! Now I have a much better understanding of the S-A hub, and the genius behind it.

Andrew R Stewart 

"Thank goodness my kids were watching. One of the pawl springs went flying, and miraculously, my daughter found it on the messy garage floor"

My cats have helped track dropped parts before... Andy.

tcs

The AW was a cost reduced derivative of the K hub which in turn was a cost reduced derivative of William Reilly's 1903 masterpiece, the X hub.

Dan Burkhart 

I once had just about given up on finding a lost pawl spring when I found it rather painfully. Those things stab you like a needle when you step on them in sock feet.

Gresp15C

Among my other activities is messing around with electronics, and the little pieces of wire trimmed from resistors and other components can lurk in a sock for hours before finally attacking.

By the way thanks for the video on how the hub works. It's worth watching a few times. It would be cool for an engineer to enter the thing in CAD to create an animation.