turtlemilk

I might be getting an tax income check of between 300$ to 500$ from my last job but then again i may not even get the damn thing.

I am looking for a Fast, high quality, durable road bicycle from the 1980s... maybe 90s

any ideals on what i should look for?

someone posted a 1984 Centurion Turbo that got my eye.. they look like good quality bikes but rare.

I am 5 foot 7 i have no ideal what size bicycle i ride and there are no bicycle shops within 20 miles.

DRietz

What's your inseam?

turtlemilk

i think 28

turtlemilk

I think my arms about 23? from my fist to the bone on the shoulder

PDXaero

theres a beautiful mint condition miyata 6700 with full sante group ending tomorrow it would be $400 but worth it to me.
You could sell the mint groupset for $250.
I think its a 56 though

turtlemilk

I don't want something super rare.... i will mod it in the future.. i am going to have to ride this thing 20 miles a day... looking for a job

DRietz

You're 5' 7" and you have a 28inch inseam? Are you measuring correctly? I'm two inches shorter and have a 30 inch inseam.

Anyway, what area are you in? I can look around your CraigsList for some smoking deals, if you'd like.

turtlemilk

i am in port charlotte fl

I guess it either 29 or 30

mkeller234

Since this will be an everyday commuter I think a mid-quality Japanese bike would be a great option. You can find really nice ones in the 150-250 price range so you could save a bit of money. Most mid-range bikes would meet your requirements of being fast and durable and it will be less of a theft target. I think a good name (Miyata, Lotus, Nishiki, Centurion) with a midrange suntour group would be great. YMMV

I built up my Lotus commuter for around 100 dollars by looking for deals and it has met every single goal I wanted it to. None of the parts are flashy on there own but they add up to a fantastic riding and practical bike. Since the parts are mid-range I don't really fuss when it gets dirty and I don't worry so much about attracting theft. It can definitely be done on the cheap.

wrk101

+1 With your budget, you could either get a late model lower end racing bike, or step down a little and get a really nice vintage bike. I would either look at the late 1980s Japanese bikes, or one of the Columbus tubed Schwinns from that era. Most of them should be obtainable well under your budget. Probably looking for something around a 21 inch frame +/-.

I would probably shoot for the late 1980s where you will find nice indexed gearing, although my daily rider is a friction shifting Lotus.

KonAaron Snake 

I'll echo the chorus here...you can get a LOT of classic Japanese bike for $300. That would still leave you money to up grade and play with the things you want to customize and replace parts that are worn. Keep in mind that I don't think I've ever bought a used bike that didn't end up needing something.

I absolutely loved my Miyata 916...and I bought that for $200. It rode as well as any high end Italian stuff I've been on, although it was a little heavier.

gomango

Find a nice Bridgestone RB-2 or a Centurion Lemans RS. Very nice bikes, and they pop up fairly often around here at decent enough prices. Japanese will probably be your best value, it almost always is around here under $300. Agree with Aaron, as you will still need a saddle and pedals in many/most cases.

slushlover2

Buy my RB3 that is listed in the for sale section. Ready to ride, $150 plus shipping.

RobbieTunes

Centurion Dave Scott Ironman, 54cm.
Figure $175-$250, and fully modifiable.
Been there, done that.

Use the rest of the money for shorts, shoes, pedals.

mkeller234

That actually seems like it would be a good option. It's too bad that you are not in the same area, of course even with shipping he would probably be under budget. Looks like a nice bike.

USAZorro

fify - he lives in Florida, and will be away from the bike when he's inquiring about jobs.

A.Winthrop

.
+1... Like RobbieTunes, I've had a lot of experience with
mid-'80s Centurions over the last seven years now and they
are a good choice. I would recommend any of the Ironman
models (1985-1989). The "Master" has Shimano 600EX components
and the "Expert" has the step-down Shimano 105 group. Both
models have the same frame, a "custom mix" of Tange #1\#2
double butted CrMo (all eight tubes). The '86 and '85
Ironman models are not marked "Master" or "Expert" but are
the higher-end "Master" models.
.
Other Centurion models to consider are the Elite and the
lesser LeMans models as these appear fairly often on eBay
and elsewhere and are usually less in price. The thing to
remember on these models is that the later the manufacture
year, the bigger bang for the buck because frame materials
and components improved dramatically on these models through
the '80s. The '86 Elite, for example, has a Tange #2 frame
and 600EX parts. By '87, the LeMans RS had a mostly Tange #2
frame and Shimano's utilitarian but well performing Light
Action group. All are 12-speeds, easily upgraded to 14-spd.
.
The Turbo, last available in '84, is a fine machine but they
are hard to find and expensive.
.
As for pricing, it's a crapshoot. I bought two identical
'86 Ironman DSes a year apart on eBay for $212 and $217,
including shipping. The less expensive one was all but new
condition. The other was in excellent mechanical condition
but had lots of superficial cosmetic damage to paint. Both
are lovely bikes. My '87 LeMans RS was $167, shipped. I
bought it as a rain bike to save my high-end Cinelli Equipe
Centurion but liked it so much I never expose it to rain.
The bottom line here is you should be able to find mid-range
to higher-end Centurions from less than $200 to less than
$300 on eBay and elsewhere. And if you are patient, you
should be able to find one in excellent, all-original
mechanical and cosmetic condition within this range. Then
you need to overhaul all bearing sets, yourself with an
investment of $50 or so in tools or by your LBS for about
$150.
.
Have a look at: www.sheldonbrown.com/centurion
.
There you will find a little about the Centurion brand with
a focus on the '80s. Much of what is said there can be
generalized to the other Japanese brands of the '80s. Models
among the Japanese offerings were very similar in quality
at the same price points so it would be hard to go wrong
on any Japanese offering with Tange #1 or Tange #2 tubing
and Shimano 600EX (or 600 Ultegra) or Shimano 105. The
other brands I would recommend would be Panasonic (most
likely the manufacturer of Centurion Ironman models), Miyata
and Fuji but there are others. My daughter is riding a
Maruishi RX-5, about the equivalent of my LeMans RS but
with more relaxed touring geometry. They are lovely bikes
offered at all price points but no one knows much about
them so they go cheap when they pop up.
.
Also have a look at the '84 Centurion catalog scans at the
end of the Centurion article on Sheldon's site. There are
pics and detailed specs on all the models of that year's
lineup which will give you an idea of what to expect of
any Japanese bike at a given price point. The models are
listed in the order of quality from the top down. The Turbo
was at the top for that year. The Comp TA, predecessor to
the Ironman model, was number two and a wonderful bike but
these are scarce now. The '84 Centurion lineup marked a
shift from Suntour to Shimano groupsets which continued
through the '80s.
.
See also Sheldon's article on Japanese Bicycles. The bottom
line is that the '80s was the peak of quality Japanese bike
production and that's why so many of us still seek bikes
made there from this period today.
.
Good luck!
.

KonAaron Snake 

Pricing is a crap shoot and I think there are two ways to look at it...

First is you need it now, what's the "average" fair price you're going to pay and still be able to acquire it within a reasonable time frame. I think everyone above is right on with their pricing...you'll be able to get a very nice mid-range Japanese bike for under $300 which gives plenty of room for the extras. Two extras that Robbie forgot are a helmet and some lights!

Second is long range, wait for it to come to you. If you're patient, and don't have something specific in mind, you will always eventually find some insane deal. The question becomes how much cycling did you miss out on while you waited?

turtlemilk

possible to build one using used parts? is there a place to buy used parts?

rccardr 

You can do that, but unless you are extraordinarily lucky, extremely well hooked-up, or much more talented at courcing parts than I am, you'll wind up paying a lot more than you are budgeting for. I do a lot of frame-up builds (it's a hobby, what can I say) and buy components year round when I find excellent stuff at what I would consider reasonable prices. Remember that I'm in the DC area, so bike prices are somewhat higher here than they are in FL.

For $300-500 (and up...way up), I build people Cannondale bikes with frames from the mid to late 80's and component mixes that range from '87 to the early 90's (DT shifters, indexed 6 or 7 speed drivetrains). They are SOLID and will last for decades. Most of the used bikes I find (and too often, frames) are filthy and in very poor shape. Often I will buy a bike and wind up using just the frame, stem, bars, seatpost and some of the remaining components...the rest gets replaced. I don't make money at it, just charge for the cost of the parts (see bizarre hobby note above). But when you add up new tires, tubes, cables, housing, seat, replacement components and possibly a powder coat job to what was the best bike I could find at the time (and I'm ALWAYS looking and in the market), it's VERY easy to get to that $300-500 mark. Even now, when things bicycle are cheaper in the Land Of The Great Cold. And...mostly I build on 58cm/23 inch frames because that's what fits me and sometimes I fall in love and can't part with something.

Example, however: am just finishing a very nice KHS steel framed bike in 54cm. Metallic orange, welded steel Taiwan frame (and pretty nice welds at that) from 2000, with all Shimano stuff- new 8 speed cassette, 105 FD/RD and crank, 105 brakes, 600 8 speed DT shifters, 600 hubs on Matrix rims, new SRAM chain, Michelin ProRace2 tires with new Mich tubes, new DA stainless shift cables, new brake cables in white housing, new white bar tape, Sakae stem and 26mm Cinelli drop bars, and a new white Velo saddle. I'll sell it for about $325 in the next week or so when the new saddle arrives and that's just what the parts cost me. A flipper would try for $100 above that (and would be very much earning that $100). So unless you have all of the right tools and know what you're buying, it's easy to go astray...

mkeller234

Absolutely, but like rccardr explained it can get expensive if you don't look around for deals. The best source for used parts are cheap donor bikes that were too trashed or incomplete to begin with, strip and reuse anything that works from them.

treebound 

Here's my opinion and suggestion:

Take a look at something like this Varsity
https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/bik/1572162538.html
It is under $100, seller might even take less (especially is the tires show age and the chain is worn out). It is heavy but will hold up and would do just fine on 20 mile rides. It won't be as theft prone as nicer bikes either.

The reason I suggest something like this is because in the Free Bike thread (which went downhill fast) I think you mentioned that this would be your first road bike. So I'm suggesting that you get something functional and learn with that. Then use some of the money you didn't spend on a nicer bike and get a nicer lock and chain. This will get you used to the whole locking up a bike process. Use some more of the unspent money to get a multi-tool and pump and patch kit and seatbag or handlebar bag or rack and bag to keep it all in one package. All the extra you now have will transfer from bike to bike once you figure out your preferences in road bikes.

Be smart, learn as you go, upgrade as you learn. Plus if the budget bike gets stolen or crushed while you're learning then you won't be out as much.
Just some thoughts to consider.

BigPolishJimmy

Did you try your local freecycle?

That's where I got my Puch and also my 531 trek. They needed fixing up (tires, cables, lube) but hey they were free.

EjustE

I think that this is sound advice, but it could work both ways... If the bike is hard to ride (steel rims, heavy frame, etc) one might not want to ride it and might get a bad impression about road bikes in general.

One thing that is severely missing from this request is the potential use of the bike. Is it going to be a commuter? a weekend ride at a park bike? A road bike for 20 mile or more road rides? A long distance bike? A bike that can do all of the above?

Hard to give advice without having that nailed out, first.

That said, I would say that going after the lightest bike with the best quality components one can afford, get an idea of what is the target (let's say Reynolds 531, Tange #2 and better or Columbus frame and 600 or better components), setting a budget and looking dilligently left and right to find something that fits the bill, never failed anyone. Even if someone does not like it, he/she can sell a 531 bike with 600 or better components acquired as a bargain for at least the acquiring price. Not sure that this might be the case with an $100 Varsity.

cycleheimer

Commit a list of "better" bikes to memory, so you can act on them when they show up for sale. Fuji made many great bikes that were dependable for commuting/touring/recreational riding. They are often not that expensive. You can look at the old catalogs at:

https://www.classicfuji.com/?

Don't forget that you will most likely want to at least put new tires, tubes and brake pads on the bike.

Good sources:

Nashbar...
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/TopCate...10053_10052_-1

Niagara...
https://www.niagaracycle.com/index.ph...er_id=&sort=3a

You may want to look for braze-ons for racks, fenders and water bottles. A rear rack and lightweight fenders may cost you $50, but will be well worth it if you are commuting. Panniers are also an asset.

Touring bikes might be something you might consider. A somewhat "official list" is as follows:

Bridgestone RB-T
Bridgestone T-500
Bridgestone T-700
Centurion Pro Tour
Fuji Touring Series IV
Fuji Touring Series V
Kuwahara Caravan
Lotus Odyssey
Miyata 610
Miyata 1000
Nishiki Continental
Nishiki Cresta GT
Nishiki International
Nishiki Riviera GT
Nishiki Seral
Novara Randonee
Panasonic PT-3500
Panasonic PT-5000
Panasonic Pro Touring
Panasonic Touring Deluxe
Raleigh Alyeska
Raleigh Kodiak
Raleigh Portage
Raleigh Super Tourer
Raleigh Touring 18
Schwinn Paramount P15-9 Tourer
Schwinn Passage
Schwinn Voyageur/Voyageur SP
Specialized Expedition
Takara Overland
Trek 520
Trek 620
Trek 720
Univega Gran Tourismo
Univega Specialisima

Also, hybrids with 700C wheels can be a nice alternative.