Vonruden

Hi All,

Looking to get some advice on touching up some spots on a 1968 Jack Taylor Super Clubman. It has some minor surface rust and some chips throughout that I plan to attend to. There is also 2 small areas that have been primed on the seat stay. I don't want to repaint as the original flamboyant pale blue should clean up nice and like my bikes original. Any advice on paints that matchup with the JT colors? Prefer something that will work for small and medium areas? I know Bilenky does restorations and is a consideration. Below are some pics in its current as found state, plan to get after it today and shine up some parts, maybe tend to some rust. Any touch up advices is appreciated.


Here is a pic of the worst area

sloar 

VERY cool bike..

rootboy 

Beautiful bike. Unfortunately, that second pic of the top tube is a big ouch. In my limited experience on touch up, doing an area that large is going to be very tricky. As you know, you're going to have to scrape that rust and any bubbling under the paint, down to bare metal, prime and paint. And on an area that large, it is going to look quite funky if done with a brush. Though I suppose you could try it. My recommendation, FWIW, is an airbrush. But that is very involved too. And a LOT of work.

sloar 

I would treat the rust and enjoy the patina. Most of the time (not always) touch ups look bad.

rootboy 

I agree, Sloar. Touching that place up just isn't going to look good.

oddjob2

+1 An OA soaked towel or Barkeepers Friend will clean it right up.

gomango

Agreed.

I wouldn't paint it. Really tricky to get it right.

Thorough cleaning of entire bike in the off season and needed maintenance.

Get some new brake pads, quality tires and some bar tape. Perhaps cable housings.

Voila, a winner.

nlerner

In some places, you can develop a color match with Testors model paint, but I agree that the top tube is too large an area to be inconspicuous. Treat with rust inhibitor (EvapoRust is good), then wax.

auchencrow

+1

Vonruden

Thanks all!! The forum has spoken...love this place. Would you recoomend Bar keepers or Evaporust??

crank_addict

Super neat. Terrific color contrast especially with those sporty Taylor graphics.

Me the odd duck
No doubt some purist would leave it as is but I'd go for a spray touch-up but not the entire top tube. Just enough to get the eyesore out yet wouldn't overdue the touch-up. There's plenty of other acceptable character flaws on it. If the entire top tube is done, its going to oddly stand apart from the rest of the bike. IMHO doubt many one would devalue a 'preserved' bike. My thought would be to make it look like it wasn't painted. Don't want the eye drawn to the repair.

If you have the patience and time, read on.

Just an amateur but if mine:
Would pull the fork and take it to a PPG or Sikkens auto paint supplier - scan or chart match. Wouldn't fully strip the paint on the top tube. Obviously the rest of the bike would be protected from overspray. I would also finely mask but very close to the better area of pin stripes. Being this would be a 'blend' process, a portion of the top tube would be left exposed. First, using a wax remover, top tube must be impeccable devoid of any oil or waxes. Then scuff using a 220 grit sand paper to just level the rough and raw areas to original paint surface elevation. Final scuff 320 grit. Definitely air-brush duty (Paasche) or small high quality touch-up sprayer. Start with a very light coat of grey tone primer - and only on the worst area - absolutely no thick or spray up to the masked area - . Keep it thin as possible. Ever so lightly sand the primed area with 320grit. Two part urethane paints today lay down nicely and cure quickly. Follow the paint suppliers spec / ratio data sheet to the 'T'. Finish spray with a fine nozzle using multiple light coats. Just get it to where it gets the pigment down and it feathers, blending to the original exposed painted portion. Avoid overdue doing it and know when to walk away. Let it fully cure per data sheet instructions.

(note: If into the belief of bake curing, first let the paint set-up for an hour before moving. Then pull the masking. Lay an old sheet in a vehicle to protect the interior, carefully prop set the bike frame inside, close the windows and leave the car outside in hot sunny day.)

After its 'fully' cured, expect the feathered / blended edges to have some minor work needed. With a high quality airbrush, probably should look quite good as is with very little over mist. But if so, ever so lightly sand with 1500 to 2000 grit - just enough to just get any of the over mist off. After all this, its time for rubbing compound. After that, is another quick swipe with wax remover. Match the white pin stripe and tie in with the original. Lastly, decide whether to clearcoat the entire frame. Pour a glass of scotch.

The Golden Boy 

When did you get this?

That is SPECTACULAR!

Vonruden

Thanks Crank Addict. You too Golden Boy. I picked it up last weekend from member 4x4xfar. I was willing to travel to the Philly area to pickup however it turned out his parents lived in the next town and he was visiting. I was trying to downsize, however too good to pass up. If not, I would be keeping the Peter Mooney frame I have for sale.

For now, I'm going to deal with the rust and ride. I do need a long 26.4 steel seatpost if anyone has.

The Golden Boy 

Congratulations!!

How on earth are you not taking a whole phone full of pix and posting them on every internet site that lets you?

Really, that is an amazingly special and a 'lifetime' find.

gomango

Takes time to wade through 29 other "amazingly special" bicycles to get to this one.

This guy is loaded with keepers.

Vonruden

Thanks Grady. I have had to part with some good ones to attain the newer ones. I tend to love em and leave em...keeping the ones that feel just right.


Trying out some Evaporust and Maudite...more to come

vqstaphbeard

Excellent find! Looking forward to the outcome. I agree with the masses and am a fan of original patina. I've not tried evaporust but have heard good things.

Velognome 

Very nice! Nothing bad enough to warrant touch up. Keep the spot oiled once the Evapo Rust is done. Blems. lend character.

ofgit

An ocassional wipe with EvapoRust after the initial derusting/rinsing will inhibit new rusting.

Shaneferd

Awesome frame, love that blue on blue finish.
+1 on the Testor's model paint, might be able to procure a direct match at your local hobbyshop. 1 Testors Aztek Sky Blue Airbrush Color Paint 1 2 oz 14 7 ml AT415 | eBay

Are those Simplex Touriste chainrings ? I have a few laid in for an early Tourist, wouldn't have expected to see them on a '68 Super Clubman.

Hope she cleans up well & rides nice!

inkandsilver

I think you are doing the right thing. Beautiful bike - and patina is no problem.

browngw 

I applaud those who can look at digs and rust and call it patina. Perhaps I'm somewhat OCD but it bothers me on my own bikes. I'm all for the paint retouch. I have a cupboard full of different sprays and cans and often mix and match them. A sable artist brush, a plastic or metal cup to spray in and lots of patience pays off. Spraying in a cup works well because you have very thin paint but as it dries its thicker for nicks and voids. Multiple coats are usually required.

The 76 Supercycle and 75 Sekine were both done with GM sprays in this manner. A lot of the paints were purchased cheaply at FMs as outdated colors.

-holiday76

good luck. Mine is going to Bilenky.

pics make it look better than it is, by far.

gomango

Does Bilenky do the painting or does it go to Fresh Frames?

Any idea about ball park cost for a respray and decal set?

Vonruden

Please keep us posted, I may follow suit. What year or serial number is yours?