Buffalo Buff

I've ridden through some downpours lately and I'm curious about caring for my bike afterwards.

Typically I'll wipe the entire frame, handlebars, seat, derailleur externals and rims down with paper towels, and give the chain a quick wipe. Bounce the bike on the ground for a minute to shake off excess moisture from the drive train. Then if I'm at home re-lube the chain.

I've given up on the idea of a foul weather bike and I just ride my Ridley every day now. Is there anything else I should do to care for it after riding in heavy rain?

bmthom.gis

Maybe yearly bottom bracket/hub maintenance? I don't think there is anything special you need to be doing.

lopek77

I just shake the bike to remove excess of water, and leaving it to dry by itself. I'm lubing the chain next day.
It's an aluminum bike with either stainless steel or aluminum components, so I don't worry much about it.

The only thing you will have to do differently if you ride a lot in wet - cleaning and/or repacking bearings, depending on what you have. Lubing things more often won't hurt...

I stopped blowing water out from components with compressed air, when I spilled bunch of a week old water form the frame when I was moving it to my car. I was riding 5 or 6 days with all the water trapped in the frame before I found it out

Keeping it clean is more important than keeping it dry IMO.

FBinNY 

IMO bicycles are outdoor vehicles and should be able to handle rain without any issues. Certainly the painted frame and decent bare metal parts can so no care is needed unless you don't want it to dry dirty or with water spots.

Some parts are more vulnerable to water, such as chains, steel hardware and bearings. I believe that the best cure is prevention, so I use lubes that can tolerate wet and protect these parts. I also periodically spray plated steel parts with a protectant such as WD-40.

The above not withstanding, some hubs, bottom brackets, headsets and pedals are more weather tolerant than others, so what you bike needs depends on the specifics. Here you can be guided by experience and specifics. If you do lots of wet riding, shorten your maintenance interval accordingly.

Lazyass

Spray bike down with a couple of full water bottles to get road gunk off and brake tracks/pads clean.

Wipe as dry as possible, including chain, with old towels used for that purpose along with bouncing bike to shake water loose.

Takes a couple of minutes. I'll relube the chain later after it's completely dry.

Jiggle

Get a $1.99 spray bottle from WalMart and a gallon can of WD-40. Much cheaper than the aerosol cans.

Elvo

I replace all cables, housing, pads, and fluid then run everything else through a degreasing bath, soak rinse, spray rinse, bake it in the autoclave, and hang dry.

dtrain

Monthly...or every ride? The baking is new to me - might have to add that in to my routine.

sced

A leaf blower is a great way to get rid of wetness in a hurry.

Kopsis

Does your BB shell have a drain hole? If not, it might be a good idea to add one. Most water that enters the frame will find its way to the BB (since it's the lowest point on the frame). The seals on a lot of modern BB cartridge bearings are good enough to keep it trapped in there for quite some time.

cale

I see little benefit to using a petroleum-based solvent, such as WD-40. It is not a weather protectant, it doesn't solve any problems that a carefully placed drop of lubrication can't solve, and it really only benefits the makers of WD 40 who don't discourage its liberal use as a parts cleaner.

Seattle Forrest

This.

Bassmanbob

I would agree with FBinNY but I'm more concerned with the dirt and sand ruining my mechanical parts. I rode in the rain yesterday, and there was sand and dirt everywhere on my bike.

When I got home, I hosed it down to remove loose dirt and sand. Then using an old soft cloth, I gave it a bath with car soap, rinsing again with the hose. I wiped the bike as dry as I could with a soft dry towel. Then I degreased the chain and derailer with commercial bicycle degreaser. I dried that as much as possible with paper towels and let it sit in the garage to air dry. Today I will lube the chain with commercial bike lube and go over the paint job with Bike Lust.

I do a thorough job like that about once a month.

gregf83 

I often spray it on the chain after wet rides and the use shop towels to wipe the chain. It's original purpose was to displace water and it seems to work well. I add heavier lube later. If you just let the chain dry on its own it's possible for rust to show up.

velociraptor

At what point do you start seeing "diminishing returns" with cleaning a road bike?

Keep in mind that I'm an OCD little b*tch that desperately struggles to internalize my anxiety every time I see as much as a speck of dust on one of my pristine steeds.

spdracr39

Unless you are submerging it in water just a basic clean and lube will do it.

Jiggle

It has been proven to be a very good rust protectant. The volatiles evaporate and a nice film is left to seal it from water. It's the only thing that keeps the insides of my shifters from rusting.

btw, petroleum is plant based and comes from the ground. You cannot get any greener than that.

cale

If your chain is wet, why not dry it off with a shop rag? Using a chemical to remove water from a wet chain sounds like EXACTLY the sort of use that the makers of WD 40 would hope you would do. It is like using oil to push water out of a bath tub. It's just not necessary to discharge that many pollutants into the atmosphere. We're supposed to protect the earth, not use it for our own purposes. If you get my meaning, and I mean it in the sincerest non-argumentative way possible.

fietsbob

WD= water displacement


Thorough? treat it like a cyclocross bike, mid week overhauls for sunday races..

drink a cup of it and get back with the results.

gregf83 

Because drying the outside of the chain doesn't dry the chain. They invented WD40 for exactly this reason; it is intended to displace the water you can't get to with your rag.

If your chain is well lubed a little rain isn't going to bother it but if your ride for a couple of hours in rain, as I'm forced to do occasionally, the rain will wash away most of the lube and in these conditions WD40 is useful. A can of WD40 lasts me a couple of years. I commute about 12,000km/yr on my bike so I'm comfortable with my impact on the earth.

cale

There is no need for a rust protectant to be used on the exterior of bikes. You're, IMHO, buying into the product hype.

The volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, do indeed evaporate but don't disappear. The MSDS data clearly states that chemicals in aerosol enter the atmosphere and STAY THERE. Both the propellant and the product itself contribute to the greenhouse gases that are damaging the earth's atmosphere. One cyclist at a time, one hobby at a time, and so on and so on. It adds up.

Petroleum is no more plant-based than you are. But you're not being green so I guess you're not made of petroleum. The earth has a finite amount of matter. Until such a time as we add more matter from "out there" we will have only ourselves to rely on. You get to help decide how the matter is "organized".

I write with only the kindest intentions and mean no personal challenge to other posters.

Pirkaus

FIFY, because things need to be in order

Pirkaus

I wash and lubricate my bike once a week during riding season
I pull the wheels, clean the chain, derailers, and brakes
Wash frame with car wash soap, chamois dry, the Slick50 spray wax
Same treatment for the wheels except no wax on brake tracks
On the trainer in the winter just a quick wipe down

basqueonacaad

The Nazes are coming to this party.

Jiggle

It is tragic how intentionally ignorant you are. I named the exact spot that I apply the product and the exact need. It fits that need perfectly.

Also what @gregf83 said. WD-40 is an excellent product.