velo352

I've been in the process of disassembling my Peugeot P8 '85 and have a few parts that do not move. I have soaked these parts in PB Blaster for a multiple days. Then I use a wrench and a tap with a rubber mallet.

1. Nut on the pedals

- From what I've read, the left pedal is reverse threaded.

2. The square cup on the BB

- I understand this is right-hand threaded. (Can anyone confirm?)

Appreciate any suggestions or assistance.

I attached pictures, but it does not allow me to (under 10 posts)

wrk101

Typically by 1985 drive side cup will be reverse threaded, adjustable cup will be normal threaded. You can confirm or head to a local shop for an assist. I use a bolt to hold the wrench on to get more leverage, the Sheldon Brown method (see his site).

On pedals, at worst, I have used a bench vise after removing the crankset, but its easier to remove them with the crank still on the bike.


Are you sure about the year?

The key is leverage.

velo352

I looked at a bunch of sites to determine the year:

Bike Boom Peugeot, USA Brochure, 1985, P8 (same bike)

^not allowed to post URL

I will try the bolt method on the BB fixed cup. Going to look closely at the thread to see which direction. Thank you for the advice!

juvela

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By the term "pedal nut" are you referring to where the pedal threads into the crank arm or are you referring to the small lock nut which holds the bearing adjustment of the pedal?

Yes, the left (non-driveside ) pedal is left hand threaded.

The fixed bottom bracket cup is mounted with a good deal of torque so it will take at least as much to break it loose.

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velo352

Nut between pedal and crank.

3alarmer

...that fixed BB cup has been in there for a long time, and unless you're planning on replacing it with something else, you will be way better off just cleaning it in place and replacing the bearings and grease. If and when you do manage to get it out, it will have a tendency to work loose as you ride unless you muscle the hell out of it when you put it back in.

randyjawa 

The left hand or non-drive side pedal is left hand threaded.

The bottom bracket fixed cup can be hard to remove sometimes. With that in mind, I always use the Big Bolt to facilitate both tasks. The Big Bolt prevents (usually) the wrench from slipping off and a great deal more torque can be applied safely. This is some bottom bracket maintenance information that might be helpful with the bottom bracket concern. Hope it is of use...


Though not positive, I believe that the fixed cup is right hand threaded.

wrk101

The reason year is important is in the late 1970s to 1980+/-, French bikes transitioned from French threaded BB to Swiss. Swiss are the same dimensions, but the drive side is reverse threaded. Later the French transitioned to British standard BB threading. By 1985, this was over in my experience. I've seen Swiss on anything from 1979 to as late as 1984. OF course, Swiss would be removed just like a British BB so its really the transition from French to Swiss that is the critical timing.

Good you identified year. Many people just get the year from the person that sold the bike to them, which can be WAY off! I've seen discrepancies as big as 20 years......... Just like sellers rarely get size right, they rarely get year right too.

I do the bolt method similar to Randy, except I use the standard Park BB fixed cup tool. So the wrench is really held in place, no slipping possible. It is thinner than an adjustable wrench. It does wear the jaws on the tool over time. And I will sometimes use a hammer to give the tool a sharp blow or a cheater bar (more stress on the tool). I use the bolt method at least 25% of the time, but most of my bikes were acquired in "neglected" condition.

JohnDThompson 

Pedal axles thread directly into the crank arms. I'm not aware of any pedals that place a nut between the pedal and the arm.

N.B. regarding the bottom bracket cup: if you get one side out (typically the adjustable cup), you can service the bottom bracket without having to remove the other side. Just clean it out in situ, pack with fresh grease and balls, and enjoy. The only compelling reason to remove both cups is if you have to replace the entire bottom bracket.

velo352

Thank you everyone for the advice!

I may leave the fixed side alone, as it will not be replaced.

Correct, the pedals are threaded into the crank arm. I would like to remove them from the arm and remove the pedals from the spindle. It is the spindle that looks similar to a nut. It is much larger than the standard 15mm and has a hex on the opposite face of the crank.

JohnDThompson 

Ok. What kind of pedals (make/model) are they? There are some that have non-standard wrench flats, but if there's an Allen fitting on the end of the axle, you can use that to remove the pedals from the arms.

velo352

They are Lyotard.

I have tried to use the hex fitting, but no movement.

This is after letting them soak in some oil to dissolve rust.

dddd

The bearing locknut under the dust cap of the pedal may very likely have been "made one" with the spindle by means of welding or peening over the end of the spindle. This was done with respect to the reality that very, very few low-end pedals ever get serviced after leaving the factory, and guaranteed that the locknut would never loosen even after the pedal suffered heavy "road rash" during a high-speed low-side incident.
Liability concerns likely had something to do with this, given the price-point that the hardware had to meet.

Luckily your bike is new enough to definitely have English pedal threading (9/16" instead of 14mm).

wrk101

There is a time when you take the bike to a nearby shop and get them to do the work for you. This is that time.

ryansu

Remember the non drive side pedal is reverse threaded so righty loosey I find that a short pipe on the end of pedal wrench can often persuade a stubborn pedal to move. This why you should grease the pedal threads before reinstalling.

In my experience the hex nut piece picture below is either 15mm or 9/16" (either side of a standard pedal wrench) I think that by 85 you wouldn't be dealing with an odd french size. Good luck and with 10 posts and you will be able to put up pictures

velo352

Hey everyone,

Updates coming soon!

Thank you all

velo352

I removed the pedal from the spindle. Doing this gave me much more room to work. I was able to remove the spindle on one crank arm (working on other).






If this is a 9/16", why doesn't this wrench fit? It is a PT 15 mm.