I have to show off my grail bike
#26
Senior Member
How I loved my Miyata 1000 and, foolish fellow that I am, I sold it. A guy and his girlfriend, from Minneapolis, drove the 400 miles through a snow storm to pick the bike up. Now that is a bit of a testimony to what others think of the 1000. As for me - one of the nicest riding bikes ever to come my way. And...
Look at those tires. They just might be the original radials. Sadly, the radials on mine were shot.
Look at those tires. They just might be the original radials. Sadly, the radials on mine were shot.
#27
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,766
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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Congratulations! Lovely Bike!!!
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*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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#28
Senior Member
The derailleur does look a bit off, but when I picked up my 85 T700 the superplate was mounted similarly, I just adjusted it level and rode it hundreds of miles. Then got a bit paranoid as believe it was nesteel said he had one explode in the middle of a long ride. I replaced it with a deore dx long but the superplate still looks and seems to function well now in the keeper part bin, it seemed intended for the the t700 34t rear cog x granny front ring as it shifted to that seamlessly vs other long cages that will bind and pull inwards if not careful. I would not recommend taking the plate apart but you can dribble lube into and clean it somewhat to where it spins smooth and use a pipe cleaner at the edge as you spin it to capture grit. I think when sand gets in there it can quickly wear it out, but so long as you are willing to remove it regularly and lube it should be okay. I found lubing it removed with plate gap facing up and soak a bit seemed to work better than on the bike.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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funny I always get pulled in by the grail shaped lantern nice find OP
#31
The derailleur seems to be working as
should. It’s a beast
should. It’s a beast
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 53
Bikes: Domane 4.5, Miyata 1000, Bike Friday
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Beautiful, it looks just like mine did in '84, got it from BJ's bike shop in Mpls for $500. I started having trouble with the derailleur after about 25 years but it worked great till then.
#33
Full Member
My Miyata 1000 & 610
My favorites of all time, my 89' 1000, picked from a garage wall nearly unridden, fully torn down and rebuilt as a regular rider. The original black rack is back on with vintage NOS blue Cannondale panniers.
The 610 (with a Grand Touring decal) is an 84' I picked up for only $100, with that infamous Mountech rd cracked and into the spokes with a bent hanger. With a lot of work, this is what it looks like now.
Kept both mostly original, with wheels, drivetrain, etc. They are a joy to pedal.
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#34
My favorites of all time, my 89' 1000, picked from a garage wall nearly unridden, fully torn down and rebuilt as a regular rider. The original black rack is back on with vintage NOS blue Cannondale panniers.
The 610 (with a Grand Touring decal) is an 84' I picked up for only $100, with that infamous Mountech rd cracked and into the spokes with a bent hanger. With a lot of work, this is what it looks like now.
Kept both mostly original, with wheels, drivetrain, etc. They are a joy to pedal.
Is the stem on that 89 stock?
#35
Full Member
No, it's not. The original was black, and stamped with the Miyata M logo, which I foolishly sold off amongst other parts. Wanting everything to be matching and bright polished silver, I usually go with Nitto, even though I don't really like the look of a short 70mm stem, but my back needs its. Seatpost also not original, first owner tossed it with the original saddle, when he opted for some awful cruiser saddle.
#36
Senior Member
#37
No, it's not. The original was black, and stamped with the Miyata M logo, which I foolishly sold off amongst other parts. Wanting everything to be matching and bright polished silver, I usually go with Nitto, even though I don't really like the look of a short 70mm stem, but my back needs its. Seatpost also not original, first owner tossed it with the original saddle, when he opted for some awful cruiser saddle.
#38
Full Member
Good question, I don't think they're too valuable. Can't recall what I got for mine, since it was grouped with some other parts, maybe $20-40 is likely, depending upon scratches. Certainly much more if someone's competing a project and needs exactly what you have.
#39
Senior Member
I believe that's the "Super Plate", which had a separate short idler arm between the main lower pivot and the pulley cage, that allowed the whole cage to float up and down, sorta like a DuoPar. Suntour also made a Mountech with this basic idea.
I think the one in the photo is adjusted wrong or broken, because the upper pulley is too far away from the freewheel cog. That second idler arm should only be angled down like that when you're on the largest cog. The whole point of the Super Plate (or DuoPar) was to keep the jockey pulley as close to the freewheel as possible in each gear.
I didn't work on them, so I don't know if this is something that can be fixed with an adjustment. Sometimes the springs have more than one hole you can put the anchor tab in. If so, I would try increasing the preload on the spring in the main lower pivot -- that's the spring that makes the idler arm want to go up. Or reduce the tension in the secondary spring, the one on the pulley cage. I bet the proper floating action depends on a balance between those two springs.
Or it could be the pivots are just gummed up, so they can't float to the correct height for each freewheel sprocket. Maybe just a thorough clean'n'lube? Certainly that's the first thing to try.
Mark Bulgier
Irony Cycles
Seattle
I think the one in the photo is adjusted wrong or broken, because the upper pulley is too far away from the freewheel cog. That second idler arm should only be angled down like that when you're on the largest cog. The whole point of the Super Plate (or DuoPar) was to keep the jockey pulley as close to the freewheel as possible in each gear.
I didn't work on them, so I don't know if this is something that can be fixed with an adjustment. Sometimes the springs have more than one hole you can put the anchor tab in. If so, I would try increasing the preload on the spring in the main lower pivot -- that's the spring that makes the idler arm want to go up. Or reduce the tension in the secondary spring, the one on the pulley cage. I bet the proper floating action depends on a balance between those two springs.
Or it could be the pivots are just gummed up, so they can't float to the correct height for each freewheel sprocket. Maybe just a thorough clean'n'lube? Certainly that's the first thing to try.
Mark Bulgier
Irony Cycles
Seattle
People always say trimec/mountechs are like duopars/superplates, and I'm too cheap to purchase one simply to disassemble, they just look like a more convoluted dual-sprung set up with balance springs, except the derailer doesn't float between the B-pivot and the A-pivot like most Shimano derailleurs made in the past 30 years. Instead the upper spring is located at the A-pivot which is no longer the cage pivot, and it balances against the new cage pivot spring which is on the extra arm.
In regards to self destruction, it's the plastic ring on the guide pulley that tends to disintegrate. Later models replace it with steel, but ultimately, the guide pulley is a non standard part and not replaceable when it does wear out.
Last edited by Kuromori; 01-29-20 at 12:42 AM.