Show your Japanese touring bikes
#177
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 153
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, Surly Pacer, All City Big Block
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They're just plastic planet bike fenders that I've had for a few years now. I'm actually not a huge fan of how they fit (you can see that the rear fender doesn't look as seamless as you'd want) but I think that is more due to vintage geometry than the fenders. I'm going to do a 700c conversion some day and when that happens I'll probably snag some stainless steel fenders.
#178
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,766
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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Thanks! I don't see why not, but most other configurations I've seen with albastache bars opted for aero brake levers, and it was of course nice to not have to buy anything new. That being said, the new bars render the hoods pretty much worthless so I can certainly see the appeal of ATB levers/shifters.
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*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#180
Cyclist
I don't believe so. I know Nitto made some of the smaller diameter back in the day for the B-Stone XO-3. There might be some knock off out there that will work. As for the long distance comfort, I've done a couple 3-day tours on Nitto mustaches with no problem, very comfortable, and I think I actually prefer them to drop bars for touring right now! The end of the bars gives an almost Albatross-esque riding position, which I love, but the staches allow me to get in an aggressive position for hills etc where the albatross hurt my back
#181
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 153
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, Surly Pacer, All City Big Block
Liked 62 Times
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30 Posts
I don't believe so. I know Nitto made some of the smaller diameter back in the day for the B-Stone XO-3. There might be some knock off out there that will work. As for the long distance comfort, I've done a couple 3-day tours on Nitto mustaches with no problem, very comfortable, and I think I actually prefer them to drop bars for touring right now! The end of the bars gives an almost Albatross-esque riding position, which I love, but the staches allow me to get in an aggressive position for hills etc where the albatross hurt my back
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#185
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,766
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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#187
Groupetto Dragon-Ass
1979 Echelon Odyssey
Sport touring frame by Cherubim
Shop sticker is from the Braxton Bike Shop in Missoula, Mt.
Sport touring frame by Cherubim
Shop sticker is from the Braxton Bike Shop in Missoula, Mt.
#188
I have a Fuji Touring Series III (I think) stashed somewhere in the Bat Cave, with fugly paint, that I never built up. Nothing else that I'd qualify 100% as a tourer, more like "sport tourer that could be pressed into touring." Nothing new here:
'82 Katakura Silk, from TimmyT: this is back to being an unbuilt frameset. Might look cool w/650b, hammered Honjos and a rando build, all silvery-shiny.
'84 Cherubim/DIN Echelon
'82 Katakura Silk, from TimmyT: this is back to being an unbuilt frameset. Might look cool w/650b, hammered Honjos and a rando build, all silvery-shiny.
'84 Cherubim/DIN Echelon
#189
Groupetto Dragon-Ass
1991 Miyata Elevation 5000
Mountain bike conversion for gravel and double track
Mountain bike conversion for gravel and double track
#190
Junior Member
'84 Fuji TSIV
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#192
Senior Member
Some tough acts to follow; this one's pretty tame by comparison. 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, procured for a song.
Came as a "geezer-glide", with a cheap upright bar, a Technomic stem about a meter long, and a cushy light-up saddle. That plus an inop Cateye Velo with the wire electrical-taped to the frame, shot tires, a shot chain, and about a kilogram of crud build-up. I had a randonneur bar that closely matches the original, but no apropos aero brake levers, so I threw on a pair of Tektros.
Original spec is 5-speed rear, and it's spaced 120mm. But these ^^^^^^^ early Suntour index shifters are 6-speed capable. So I installed a longer axle and played with the spacers, bought a 6-speed Suntour indexed freewheel, and re-centered the rim; only required tightening the DS spokes 1/2 turn each, As of now, I'm just spreading the stays, it's only about 4mm. Have to decide whether to pay someone to cold set it, try it myself, or just leave it.
As bought:
Came as a "geezer-glide", with a cheap upright bar, a Technomic stem about a meter long, and a cushy light-up saddle. That plus an inop Cateye Velo with the wire electrical-taped to the frame, shot tires, a shot chain, and about a kilogram of crud build-up. I had a randonneur bar that closely matches the original, but no apropos aero brake levers, so I threw on a pair of Tektros.
Original spec is 5-speed rear, and it's spaced 120mm. But these ^^^^^^^ early Suntour index shifters are 6-speed capable. So I installed a longer axle and played with the spacers, bought a 6-speed Suntour indexed freewheel, and re-centered the rim; only required tightening the DS spokes 1/2 turn each, As of now, I'm just spreading the stays, it's only about 4mm. Have to decide whether to pay someone to cold set it, try it myself, or just leave it.
As bought:
#195
Miyata Mike
all original 91' 1000LT
#196
Senior Member
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