What have you been wrenching on lately?
#7476
Steel is real
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Not far from Paris
Posts: 2,428
Bikes: 1992Giant Tourer,1992MeridaAlbon,1996Scapin,1998KonaKilaueua,1993Peugeot Prestige,1991RaleighTeamZ(to be upgraded),1998 Jamis Dragon,1992CTWallis(to be built),1998VettaTeam,1995Coppi(to be built),1993Grandis(to be built)
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#7477
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 6,060
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
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#7478
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
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I always lamented the loss of the aluminum mounting bolt on the last generation of Suntour Superbe Pro. The sprung upper pivot does not appear to be necessary yet adds weight and complexity.
I turned down the head of a Sram mounting bolt to fit inside the Suntour bore and it works well saving 20 grams in the process. I'm sure I'll notice the reduced weight immediately....
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#7479
The humble bumblebee 🐝 gets cleaned and polished.
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#7480
aka Tom Reingold
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,027
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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By the way, I often get super anxious when I design a wheel because I'm afraid I'll get the spoke lengths wrong. I use a google sheet I converted from Damon Rinard's Excel spreadsheet called spocalc. His math is perfectly fine, obviously, but then I need to get the hub and rim measurements pretty darn close. I've only come up with wrong spoke lengths once since using this spreadsheet, so that's pretty good, and when I started to build the wheel last night, of course, that anxious feeling set in. But the wheel came together without a hitch. I had meant to try to plan it with that extra touch where sighting through the valve stem hole can show the hub logo. But I forgot. And then I got lucky. Not that anyone will notice. It's so silly how some of us keep adding useless rituals to our utilitarian routines. It's added complexity and opportunity for added anxiety. Knowamean?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#7481
Cantilever believer
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think the wheel will hold up perfectly well regardless of hub label orientation. At least it's not where there's a cross over the valve hole, like someone did on one of their first wheels 40+ years ago (and I ran into on a machine-built wheel not so long ago).
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
#7482
Cantilever believer
Not much time for bikes today, but I did replace the grips on my alumicruiser - Saturday's ride told me in no uncertain terms the old grips were plumb wore out. Trying something eclectic here (no surprise on my bikes) - $1.75 cushy green silicone eBay grips on the main bar, and some red Spenco grips on the bar ends (that I picked up cheep at some bike swap eons ago). Hopefully this setup will hold up for a few years of busy use.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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#7483
...
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Whitestone and Rensselaerville, New York
Posts: 1,728
Bikes: Bicycles? Yup.
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Adding a bit of color to The Princess's UO-8 build. She picked this great shade; 1 Shot Peacock Blue, I was pushing for a softer blue. Decals next, clear coat this weekend, so assembly at the end of the month.
Last edited by BTinNYC; 03-05-24 at 06:57 AM.
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#7484
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,918
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
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BTinNYC I think I missed the post where you share your technique of painting the blue. Absolute Perfection!
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Likes For Classtime:
#7485
Senior Member
$15 to save this bike, it’s going to take a little elbow grease and rusted nuts to replace. But for the price I think it’s worth it. So far nothing is stuck or broke.
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Semper fi
Semper fi
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#7486
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Liked 442 Times
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254 Posts
By the way, I often get super anxious when I design a wheel because I'm afraid I'll get the spoke lengths wrong. I use a google sheet I converted from Damon Rinard's Excel spreadsheet called spocalc. His math is perfectly fine, obviously, but then I need to get the hub and rim measurements pretty darn close. I've only come up with wrong spoke lengths once since using this spreadsheet, so that's pretty good, and when I started to build the wheel last night, of course, that anxious feeling set in. But the wheel came together without a hitch. I had meant to try to plan it with that extra touch where sighting through the valve stem hole can show the hub logo. But I forgot. And then I got lucky. Not that anyone will notice. It's so silly how some of us keep adding useless rituals to our utilitarian routines. It's added complexity and opportunity for added anxiety. Knowamean?
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#7488
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,946
Bikes: 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
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1,105 Posts
My commuting bike (1973 Raleigh International which I hand-painted) has been wearing a borrowed wheel for a couple of years. I borrowed it from my Lemond titanium racing bike. The Lemond has been wearing 650B wheels as an experiment. It's been fun, but I'll revert to 700c now, so it needs the borrowed wheel back. The 650B wheels are a very tight fit, and I can only use a 38 mm tire in the rear. The handling is a little wonky, especially if the front tire pressure isn't just right. The Lemond rode harshly, so I'll see if more supple 700c tires fix that.
A problem with borrowing the wheel is that the Lemond has a Campagnolo drivetrain, including a Campagnolo rear hub with Campagnolo spacing on the cassette. To shift, sometimes I have to use two clicks instead of one. It's not as bad as I would have thought, but the Raleigh will be going back to a Shimano rear hub.
I built a wheel last night! I used a Dura Ace hub I got off ebay a while back. I got it thinking I would build it onto my Lemond with 650B rims (while converting the Lemond to a Shimano drivetrain), but I changed my mind. I was told that this particular vintage Dura Ace hub can accept many kinds of Shimano cassettes, so I very much hope it accepts my 10-speed cassette. I used a 36-hole CR18 rim I got years ago when I stocked up on parts for flipping bikes. I anticipated a lot more need than I ended up having. I bought the spokes from Lee Kilpatrick (lkspoke@yahoo.com) who cuts custom spokes. It's always a pleasure dealing with him. I recommend him highly. I used a technique [MENTION=158672]FBinNY[/MENTION] taught me which is to use a lighter gauge spokes on the non-drive side. I also have hundreds of spoke nipples hanging around from when I stocked up on parts.
My Raleigh isn't wearing my new wheel yet. Here it is, ready to go to work today. It's 13 miles each way, so I don't do the commute on bike most of the time.
Here is the wheel after lacing and before tensioning. I like to put a rubber band around the hub so people I can mess with the heads of who don't know about bikes, making them wonder how I got it "in there."
Soon, I'll try the cassette on the new wheel and use it on the Raleigh.
A problem with borrowing the wheel is that the Lemond has a Campagnolo drivetrain, including a Campagnolo rear hub with Campagnolo spacing on the cassette. To shift, sometimes I have to use two clicks instead of one. It's not as bad as I would have thought, but the Raleigh will be going back to a Shimano rear hub.
I built a wheel last night! I used a Dura Ace hub I got off ebay a while back. I got it thinking I would build it onto my Lemond with 650B rims (while converting the Lemond to a Shimano drivetrain), but I changed my mind. I was told that this particular vintage Dura Ace hub can accept many kinds of Shimano cassettes, so I very much hope it accepts my 10-speed cassette. I used a 36-hole CR18 rim I got years ago when I stocked up on parts for flipping bikes. I anticipated a lot more need than I ended up having. I bought the spokes from Lee Kilpatrick (lkspoke@yahoo.com) who cuts custom spokes. It's always a pleasure dealing with him. I recommend him highly. I used a technique [MENTION=158672]FBinNY[/MENTION] taught me which is to use a lighter gauge spokes on the non-drive side. I also have hundreds of spoke nipples hanging around from when I stocked up on parts.
My Raleigh isn't wearing my new wheel yet. Here it is, ready to go to work today. It's 13 miles each way, so I don't do the commute on bike most of the time.
Here is the wheel after lacing and before tensioning. I like to put a rubber band around the hub so people I can mess with the heads of who don't know about bikes, making them wonder how I got it "in there."
Soon, I'll try the cassette on the new wheel and use it on the Raleigh.
__________________
2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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#7489
Newbie
Hello to all,
In lieu of introduction let me just share that I am “near” new to this forum and have total of 5 posts, all of them on “Show us your Raleigh” thread.
Unfortunately my communication tally does not entitle me to post pictures, so I could not contribute much in that thread, other than ask few questions of a member who posted a picture of a his refurbished Raleigh Super Course (early 70’s vintage). I received few answers and shared some information on the subject of Raleigh serial numbers and possible date of production.
I have a 1971-1972 Raleigh Super Course which, when new, was a carbon copy of a bike pictured in 1971 Raleigh Super Course US catalog, including the AVA stem, same wheels, hubs, derailleurs, frame, etc. It is the serial number (6 digits only), which points to possible early 1972 production year. (Data from Headbadge website - no association; used as information resource).
I am also familiar with information on Sheldon Brown’s site.
I am in the middle of restoring said bike and, unfortunately, the bottom-bracket spindle’s “race”, on the drive side, is worn; the spindle binds when trying to adjust its “play” to proper tolerances. New (loose) ball bearings did not solve the problem.
The few square taper or Cottered spindles on eBay seem less than serviceable, so remaining options are the sealed BB cartridge or thread-less type. The bottom bracket cup threading is Raleigh's 26 TPI (confirmed), which limits the possibilities drastically.
I can get Phil Wood’s Super Corsa 26TPI BB cups, and possibly the BB cartridge, but I am not sure what spindle length to order.
The full (original cotter type) spindle length is about 135.7 mm, and distance from the “middle” of left cotter slot to “middle” of right cotter slot on the spindle is about 116 mm. Chain-line is about 43.5 mm. Shell width is 70.5 mm.
I looked at Phil Wood Square Taper Bottom Brackets 103-145 mm (JIS Taper), but am not sure which spindle length would work. It would seem that, a square tapered spindle of 116 mm length with 68-73 mm (adjustable) shell should fit my application, and preserve chain-line.
The 135mm spindle would match the full length of Cottered 135 mm spindle, but the latter is asymmetrical, with left side race-to-end length of 33 mm, and right side of 46 mm, hence 116 mm spindle choice (?)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
In lieu of introduction let me just share that I am “near” new to this forum and have total of 5 posts, all of them on “Show us your Raleigh” thread.
Unfortunately my communication tally does not entitle me to post pictures, so I could not contribute much in that thread, other than ask few questions of a member who posted a picture of a his refurbished Raleigh Super Course (early 70’s vintage). I received few answers and shared some information on the subject of Raleigh serial numbers and possible date of production.
I have a 1971-1972 Raleigh Super Course which, when new, was a carbon copy of a bike pictured in 1971 Raleigh Super Course US catalog, including the AVA stem, same wheels, hubs, derailleurs, frame, etc. It is the serial number (6 digits only), which points to possible early 1972 production year. (Data from Headbadge website - no association; used as information resource).
I am also familiar with information on Sheldon Brown’s site.
I am in the middle of restoring said bike and, unfortunately, the bottom-bracket spindle’s “race”, on the drive side, is worn; the spindle binds when trying to adjust its “play” to proper tolerances. New (loose) ball bearings did not solve the problem.
The few square taper or Cottered spindles on eBay seem less than serviceable, so remaining options are the sealed BB cartridge or thread-less type. The bottom bracket cup threading is Raleigh's 26 TPI (confirmed), which limits the possibilities drastically.
I can get Phil Wood’s Super Corsa 26TPI BB cups, and possibly the BB cartridge, but I am not sure what spindle length to order.
The full (original cotter type) spindle length is about 135.7 mm, and distance from the “middle” of left cotter slot to “middle” of right cotter slot on the spindle is about 116 mm. Chain-line is about 43.5 mm. Shell width is 70.5 mm.
I looked at Phil Wood Square Taper Bottom Brackets 103-145 mm (JIS Taper), but am not sure which spindle length would work. It would seem that, a square tapered spindle of 116 mm length with 68-73 mm (adjustable) shell should fit my application, and preserve chain-line.
The 135mm spindle would match the full length of Cottered 135 mm spindle, but the latter is asymmetrical, with left side race-to-end length of 33 mm, and right side of 46 mm, hence 116 mm spindle choice (?)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by RogueB; 03-05-24 at 08:23 PM.
#7490
Happy With My Bikes
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,480
Bikes: Hi-Ten bike boomers, a Trek Domane and some projects
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Will you mask the chrome, or clear coat over it? I'm a few weeks away from clear coating my rusty Carabela and it has chrome socks and head tube lugs. I just don't think the chrome will hold the clear coat well, and I don't know that the patina will not come back as all out rust. So I'm mulling over what I should do.
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"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
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#7492
Full Member
I am going to try some chrome paint over my bad (used to be chrome) chainstays. Were so bad I had to keep sanding down through the chrome so this will be an experiment for me. Luckily the seatstays were fine and the outsides of one chainstay was fine, just the inside and outside drive side.
Currently tried polishing a stem, but found the polishing kit with a 3in wheel on a corded drill was too slow. So far it's coming out good and this leaves me with hope on the campy cranks and other bits to polish out.
Currently tried polishing a stem, but found the polishing kit with a 3in wheel on a corded drill was too slow. So far it's coming out good and this leaves me with hope on the campy cranks and other bits to polish out.
#7493
1991 PBP Anciens
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elburn, Illannoy
Posts: 718
Bikes: 1954 Robin Hood, 1964 Dunelt, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
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Still no C&V work, but at least I am ambulatory enough with my knee scooter to get out to the garage and phart around with the 90 year old lathe. At least for two hours at a time, anyway. That's all I can stand on the knee scooter. After that, it's blissful nap time.
I found out that having babbitt bearings on the main shaft of the headstock dates it between 1932 to 1935. It was needle bearings from 1936 on.
I grew up working on old farm equipment and Chevy Stovebolt sixes, AKA babbitt beaters, so babbitt bearings are no big deal. I was able to dial in the clearance with .012 and .002 shims and install the new belts. If I get around to it tomorrow, I'll run it at no load for a while, then re-check the bearing clearances.
I'd work on the Everton but that requires moving the Ural and ATV out of the garage. My shifting foot doesn't work and I don't think I can even swing a leg over either.
I found out that having babbitt bearings on the main shaft of the headstock dates it between 1932 to 1935. It was needle bearings from 1936 on.
I grew up working on old farm equipment and Chevy Stovebolt sixes, AKA babbitt beaters, so babbitt bearings are no big deal. I was able to dial in the clearance with .012 and .002 shims and install the new belts. If I get around to it tomorrow, I'll run it at no load for a while, then re-check the bearing clearances.
I'd work on the Everton but that requires moving the Ural and ATV out of the garage. My shifting foot doesn't work and I don't think I can even swing a leg over either.
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#7494
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: PNW
Posts: 1,587
Bikes: One of everything and three of everything French
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I wonder if there are C&V knee scooters? It is good you have fun things like the old lathe to occupy yourself with while your body heals.
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I.C.
I.C.
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#7496
...
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Whitestone and Rensselaerville, New York
Posts: 1,728
Bikes: Bicycles? Yup.
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BTinNYC I think I missed the post where you share your technique of painting the blue. Absolute Perfection!
Last edited by BTinNYC; 03-07-24 at 05:48 AM.
#7497
1991 PBP Anciens
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elburn, Illannoy
Posts: 718
Bikes: 1954 Robin Hood, 1964 Dunelt, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
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Jeez, I hope not. The current 'Evil One' is 8 years old and not all that refined. It beats crutches, though. I need to retrain myself on it and hope to be making chips in a couple weeks.
#7498
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,232
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
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I also learned you could use a welders torch to melt down the scrap bearing halves to make weights for bottom fishing off the “Joisey” coast.
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#7499
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,918
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
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This stuff?
Never knew this existed.
Never knew this existed.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#7500
...
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Whitestone and Rensselaerville, New York
Posts: 1,728
Bikes: Bicycles? Yup.
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I used this:
https://finessepinstriping.com/produ...-striper-f-00/
But it seems the same as the 3M. The key to sharp lines is pulling the masking tape before the paint is dry, like when it's tacky. Dried paint wil chip a little along the tape edge.
https://finessepinstriping.com/produ...-striper-f-00/
But it seems the same as the 3M. The key to sharp lines is pulling the masking tape before the paint is dry, like when it's tacky. Dried paint wil chip a little along the tape edge.
Last edited by BTinNYC; 03-07-24 at 07:33 AM.