TakingMyTime

While deciding on my next set of tires I've noticed that the selection of TLR tires far exceeds what I'm seeing available in clinchers. That's not to say I can't find the clinchers I like, but again, the availability and selection of TLR tires is huge.

I understand that a TLR setup without tubes will most likely decrease my rolling resistance and increase the ride comfort while assisting by reducing downtime due to flats, but how much am I actually hobbling myself by running those TLRs with a tube? I'm a devote clincher user and would rather stay away from a tubeless setup.

TMonk

I use some Aeolus Pro TLR 3's on my daily driver TCR with tubes (TPU). It works just fine.

TMonk

Just checked your location. In coastal Orange County CA, things like goatheads and broken glass would be minimized compared to more rural areas. Tubeless would be a solution looking for a problem for you (as it is for me, on road at least).

jaxgtr

I have some Pirelli P Zero Race TLR's that I run with TPU's and it works fine and I do not see any difference in my avg speed or power.

Sy Reene

Just curious, why not use the non TLR versions? Evidently 70g difference per tire if you don't use the TLR version.

jaxgtr

I have been running them tubeless for a while and I wanted to try the TPU's, but did not want to buy the tubed versions for the experiment. So the last time I had to add sealant, I just cleaned them up, popped in the TPU and off I went. Knock on wood, no flats yet and it has been somewhere close to 800 miles give or take a few.

jonathanf2

TLR ready tires with tubes are a hassle. They're harder to deal with when fixing a flat. I prefer a clincher with a good balance of puncture/rolling resistance and TPU tubes.Tubeless road tires are still susceptible to sidewall cuts and flats. I've seen many stranded tubeless cyclists forced to call a ride share or taxi.

My recipe is running clinchers + TPU tubes on taped up TLR carbon wheels. I carry several spare TPU tubes and use a portable e-pump for the smoothest and fastest way to fix a flat. I also make sure I adhere to proper PSI based on my ride conditions & weight. I used 25c clinchers, but run them around 80psi on rough roads.

Though for my gravel bike, I'm 100% tubeless and even like hookless! Though I only run that setup at 40psi or less!

TakingMyTime

Basically it boils down to when I need new tires, what is available and at a good price.

I agree. I had a heck of a time getting it to mount correctly. I thought it was just because of inexperience or just being out on the road with little patience. I tried to get them mounted correctly a couple of times when I got home and finally gave up.

PromptCritical 

I’m still on the fence about tubeless. How low of a tire pressure would one be able to run on a 700c x 32 tire?

jonathanf2

I would go tubeless on a 32c tire. There's enough tire volume making them easier to work with. I would say 60psi or less depending on your weight and road conditions.

jonathanf2

In the past few months I helped two cyclists on the road fix their flat tires. Both were running TLR tires with butyl tubes. Drives me nuts that many bike shops let cyclists ride with this combination without giving them options. For new or mechanically challenged riders, it's a major PITA to fix a flat. Either give them clinchers or set them up full tubeless.

jaxgtr

I think this is more to do with tire\rim combination then it being a tubeless tire and a tube. I have had zero issues installing or removing tubes with TLR tires. I had a tire sliced about 2 weeks ago when I was running tubeless, and this was beyond using a plug to fix it. So after I dealt with all the sealant, I had to use my emergency dollar bill to keep the tube in the tire, but on the side of the road, I easily popped the bead, cleaned up the tire, inserted the TPU, put the tire back on and rode off. The slice across the tire was so large, I just felt is was just too sketchy to try and ride home that way, so I call for a ride, but it only took me about 20-25 mins from flat to back to riding and most of that was dealing with sealant.

I like tubeless, but I am leaning to going back to tubes on my road bikes and have no problems running then with my current tires while they still have life left in them as I know I can easily change a tube on the side of the road. When they are due for replacement, I could go back to a tubed version for some of the weight savings.

Steve B.

I run tubeless (I assume that's "TLR", never heard of that). on my new Emonda. Has Bontrager rims that are 27.5 mm wide exterior, I run Conti GP5000 S TR 28mm tires that end up as 30mm. I run 70/80 psi. I weigh 225. It's a very comfortable ride.

Biker Pete 

Confusing question by the OP. For example, Continental Grand Prix 5000 tubeless tires are heavier and more expensive than the tubed tire version. I’ve debated tubeless vs tubed (my carbon rims are ‘tubeless ready’) and based on my riding style and conditions, I’ve opted for the tubed variety….using lightweight TPU tubes. No regrets.

Steve B.

According to what I am seeing on the BikeTiresDirect website, the GP5000 S TR in a 28mm is 250 grams per tire. The standard clincher GP5000 standard, same size, is also 250 grams. What are you seeing ?? BTD might have wrong specs.

Biker Pete 

I’m using info from the bicycle rolling resistance dot com website. For the 25mm version they state:

250g/220g tubeless/tubed manufacturer specs
255g/221g tubeless/tubed measured weight

Steve B.

Thats what BTD shows as well for the 25’s. The 28’s are the same weight. Kind of a moot point. 30 grams is an ounce,

Biker Pete 

And for the 28s

tubeless/tubed 280g/250g manufacturer specs
tubeless/tubed 265g/235g measured weight

I use 28mm tubed and their measured weights jive with my results.

Yeah it’s not a lot of weight but the tubeless in this brand/model do appear to be heavier. And the times I’ve looked the tubeless are more expensive.

So for me, these factors, in addition to my riding style and conditions and other factors I won’t go into, swayed me to the tubed version. Using the tubeless version with tubes, which is what the OP is wondering about, makes even less sense to me. But I acknowledge that people have different opinions, perspectives, and needs.

Steve B.

I had the typical “go tubeless” dilemma. The bike came with some low end Bontrager tubed tires in 25. I knew the rim could go tubeless and I wanted to replace with 5000’s. I also knew what a PITA it can be (as noted in this thread) changing a flat with tubes in the field with a tubeless rim. Thus opted to pay some more for the 5000 in tubeless, went up a size as well and ran as tubeless. As it developed, Trek did not install tubeless TLR tape as per spec., so after a frustrating time trying to air up, o had my LBS do it. I gamble that the sealant will handle typical punctures and I won’t need to install a tube on the side of a highway. I carry a tube anyway, plus CO2, a pump and tire levers. I do have the benefit of a comfortable ride at reduced psi, so there’s that. And 5000’s are a nice riding tire.

Biker Pete 

Yes, improved comfort w/o sacrificing performance was my observation in going from my 1975 Motobecane with 22mm tubular tires at 115 psi to my 2016 Kestrel with 28mm Conti GP5000 at 70 psi. (what a difference 4 decades of bicycle technology makes, lol). I have not tried tubeless on the Kestrel, the SRAM and Silca tire pressure calculators suggest only about a 2 psi lower pressure for tubeless, so my guess is the comfort difference would likely be imperceptible. And yes, the GP5000’s are excellent tires!

SoSmellyAir

This may be a stupid reason, but I plan to setup my new road bike tubeless because the wheels are deeper, and I do not want to want to use valve extensions.

jaxgtr

That is actually not a stupid reason, I hate valve extensions.

asgelle

How deep are these wheels that an 80 mm valve isn't long enough?

SoSmellyAir

51 mm front and 60 mm rear, and most TPU tubes from the big brands have 60 mm valves max.

Jrasero

TLR just means tubeless ready clincher thus yes you should be able to run a tube in it with the only downside being weight and maybe a touch of rolling resistance. TLR can be pretty tight to insure a complete seal along the bead, so in theory you could pinch your tubes more easily. I have a friend you uses Pirelli Zero Race TLR with tubes and has had zero issues. I think it's kind of pointless since you should just go with the GOAT GP5000 but whatever floats your boat