Better uphill Gearing
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Better uphill Gearing
So I have a Tri event coming up in a little over a week.. as I mapped out the course, I noticed the climb was a little longer with elevation than I expected. About 2 mile +8 -to 9%
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.
Last edited by DJKTri; 06-02-21 at 12:01 PM.
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For tri you are spending extended durations at a lower power output intentionally to pace the event with finishing the run strong.
Given that, the advice on Slowtwitch for years has been to cram whatever necessary on there so that on the climbs you can maintain your target power AND your desired cadence AND desired riding position (not standing, but spinning).
I have no idea how strong you are, but I'd ask around town to see if you could borrow a smaller crank also. Any old hollowtech should do fine. Somebody should have a 50/34 you could use. Since the spacing is the same you'd just have to lower the FD down some for the smaller rings.
Then, I'd see if you can borrow an 11-30 to try. The old largest was a 28t cog on short cage RD's, but some people had success just barely squeezing in the newer 11-30 cassettes. Shimano is pretty conservative on the largest cog thing. Worth a shot.
That's what I'd do:
-borrow a 50/34 crank
-buy/borrow an 11-30 cassette or 11-28 if it won't work
Going as large in back as 11-32 or 11-34 or 11-36 would require a different RD. Which would be tough as you'd need to probably go into the MTB world of used RD's still road compatible to work with your shifters. As the newer "road" stuff that goes pretty big in back is now 11spd.
Given that, the advice on Slowtwitch for years has been to cram whatever necessary on there so that on the climbs you can maintain your target power AND your desired cadence AND desired riding position (not standing, but spinning).
I have no idea how strong you are, but I'd ask around town to see if you could borrow a smaller crank also. Any old hollowtech should do fine. Somebody should have a 50/34 you could use. Since the spacing is the same you'd just have to lower the FD down some for the smaller rings.
Then, I'd see if you can borrow an 11-30 to try. The old largest was a 28t cog on short cage RD's, but some people had success just barely squeezing in the newer 11-30 cassettes. Shimano is pretty conservative on the largest cog thing. Worth a shot.
That's what I'd do:
-borrow a 50/34 crank
-buy/borrow an 11-30 cassette or 11-28 if it won't work
Going as large in back as 11-32 or 11-34 or 11-36 would require a different RD. Which would be tough as you'd need to probably go into the MTB world of used RD's still road compatible to work with your shifters. As the newer "road" stuff that goes pretty big in back is now 11spd.
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People have different gearing needs when it comes to climbs.
Personally, I wouldn’t want to climb 9% grades with a 39/27 combination.
Your easiest change is probably a compact crank set. Shimano still makes a 9-speed Sora model, and it’s not too expensive:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/FC-3550.html
Personally, I wouldn’t want to climb 9% grades with a 39/27 combination.
Your easiest change is probably a compact crank set. Shimano still makes a 9-speed Sora model, and it’s not too expensive:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/FC-3550.html
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For tri you are spending extended durations at a lower power output intentionally to pace the event with finishing the run strong.
Given that, the advice on Slowtwitch for years has been to cram whatever necessary on there so that on the climbs you can maintain your target power AND your desired cadence AND desired riding position (not standing, but spinning).
I have no idea how strong you are, but I'd ask around town to see if you could borrow a smaller crank also. Any old hollowtech should do fine. Somebody should have a 50/34 you could use. Since the spacing is the same you'd just have to lower the FD down some for the smaller rings.
Then, I'd see if you can borrow an 11-30 to try. The old largest was a 28t cog on short cage RD's, but some people had success just barely squeezing in the newer 11-30 cassettes. Shimano is pretty conservative on the largest cog thing. Worth a shot.
That's what I'd do:
-borrow a 50/34 crank
-buy/borrow an 11-30 cassette or 11-28 if it won't work
Going as large in back as 11-32 or 11-34 or 11-36 would require a different RD. Which would be tough as you'd need to probably go into the MTB world of used RD's still road compatible to work with your shifters. As the newer "road" stuff that goes pretty big in back is now 11spd.
Given that, the advice on Slowtwitch for years has been to cram whatever necessary on there so that on the climbs you can maintain your target power AND your desired cadence AND desired riding position (not standing, but spinning).
I have no idea how strong you are, but I'd ask around town to see if you could borrow a smaller crank also. Any old hollowtech should do fine. Somebody should have a 50/34 you could use. Since the spacing is the same you'd just have to lower the FD down some for the smaller rings.
Then, I'd see if you can borrow an 11-30 to try. The old largest was a 28t cog on short cage RD's, but some people had success just barely squeezing in the newer 11-30 cassettes. Shimano is pretty conservative on the largest cog thing. Worth a shot.
That's what I'd do:
-borrow a 50/34 crank
-buy/borrow an 11-30 cassette or 11-28 if it won't work
Going as large in back as 11-32 or 11-34 or 11-36 would require a different RD. Which would be tough as you'd need to probably go into the MTB world of used RD's still road compatible to work with your shifters. As the newer "road" stuff that goes pretty big in back is now 11spd.
The 11 28 is already on. I guess the question is whether I should buy a cheap 11-30 and try squeezing that in.
Last edited by DJKTri; 06-02-21 at 03:25 PM.
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Is this someplace to out of the way or far from you to just drive there and ride the climb a time or two? First hand experience will give you a reasonable idea how much lower gearing you might need than I can.
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Good idea. and with the wonders of smart trainers the grade profile can be programmed so you can at least simulate it.
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I guess the question I have is.. can I just buy the chainrings rather buying a whole new crank etc..? Trying to make this simple. Might even grab a 12-30 just for safe measures.
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So that's takes me back to some of the initial suggestions.. I will be trying a similar climb today just to get the feel.
So I could buy a new crankshaft 50/34. I assume 170mm.
Or..
I could pull the crank off my Trek Speed Concept and install on my Giant TCR Comp 2
What I'm trying to understand is the BB30 compatibility. How you can you tell?
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With it being a week out I wouldn't change anything. Your body and muscle memory is used to what you have. Going to a 30t cassette would only lower you about 3 gear inches. Just go out there and have fun, and make changes for your next race.
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Frankly, it's easier to swap out a whole crankset (assuming that it's also a Shimano) and it's usually not much more expensive than just the rings, heck - it could even be cheaper, in some instances.
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If 170mm is your existing crank length, yes. It's best not to switch to a different crank length. Ride what you're accustomed to.
The important things are the cranksets' spindle diameter and length. If they match, they are interchangeable. If they are different, they are not.
The important things are the cranksets' spindle diameter and length. If they match, they are interchangeable. If they are different, they are not.
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Practice running with the bike on your shoulder! <grin>
Good luck and enjoy the event when it happens.
Good luck and enjoy the event when it happens.
#17
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Not knowing your weight, target power and target cadence makes answering your question a complete guessing game.
Assuming your 175 lbs, your bike is 20 lbs, your power is 300W, the incline is 8% and the target cadence is 85 rpm, - your speed will be ~6.3 mph. For that to happen at ~85 rpm you need a 34t chain ring and a 11-36t cassette (!)
Now fill in you own numbers and your own compromises ;-)
Assuming your 175 lbs, your bike is 20 lbs, your power is 300W, the incline is 8% and the target cadence is 85 rpm, - your speed will be ~6.3 mph. For that to happen at ~85 rpm you need a 34t chain ring and a 11-36t cassette (!)
Now fill in you own numbers and your own compromises ;-)
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So I have a Tri event coming up in a little over a week.. as I mapped out the course, I noticed the climb was a little longer with elevation than I expected. About 2 mile +8 -to 9%
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.
Than said if you are in a Tri race you probably don't want to spend huge time on training that one climb. I would want a compact crank with a 34/32 and spin up the puppy. I would at least need a 34/30 to feel confident and at 34/28........well I might have to walk that is a steep grade for 2 miles.
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So what I did was order 2 cassettes. A 30 and 32. I also ordered a wolf tooth roadlink. It supposedly can push the derailleur out to fit differerent cassettes. Really I think the 30 will be fine. But if I can use the 32, I'll take it. Since we got into the metrics.. I'm 155lbs and 5'7.
After this climb is another 12 miles (rolling hills), followed by a 10k. I'd like to not destroy my legs at the halfway point during this climb. Also, I don't wanna get forced out of the saddle, which could happen as a brief part hits +10%.
After this climb is another 12 miles (rolling hills), followed by a 10k. I'd like to not destroy my legs at the halfway point during this climb. Also, I don't wanna get forced out of the saddle, which could happen as a brief part hits +10%.
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So what I did was order 2 cassettes. A 30 and 32. I also ordered a wolf tooth roadlink. It supposedly can push the derailleur out to fit differerent cassettes. Really I think the 30 will be fine. But if I can use the 32, I'll take it. Since we got into the metrics.. I'm 155lbs and 5'7.
After this climb is another 12 miles (rolling hills), followed by a 10k. I'd like to not destroy my legs at the halfway point during this climb. Also, I don't wanna get forced out of the saddle, which could happen as a brief part hits +10%.
After this climb is another 12 miles (rolling hills), followed by a 10k. I'd like to not destroy my legs at the halfway point during this climb. Also, I don't wanna get forced out of the saddle, which could happen as a brief part hits +10%.
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One thing..
You can adjust the B-Screw on the derailleur and look at the clearance above the sprocket.
Also look at how much the cage is stretched in different gearing combinations (Big/Big, Big/Small,Small/Big, & Small/Small) (which may stretch more with the new sprockets).
Since the chain wraps around about half of the different sprockets, adding 2T will about 1/2", or 1 link more chain.
Circumference = πD = 2πR.
So, adding 2 teeth (1" circumference) will increase the diameter of the sprocket by about 1/π, or about 1/3", and increase the radius by about 1/2π, or a little more than 1/8".
Anyway, you may be able to determine if it looks like you'll have the clearance to try.
You can adjust the B-Screw on the derailleur and look at the clearance above the sprocket.
Also look at how much the cage is stretched in different gearing combinations (Big/Big, Big/Small,Small/Big, & Small/Small) (which may stretch more with the new sprockets).
Since the chain wraps around about half of the different sprockets, adding 2T will about 1/2", or 1 link more chain.
Circumference = πD = 2πR.
So, adding 2 teeth (1" circumference) will increase the diameter of the sprocket by about 1/π, or about 1/3", and increase the radius by about 1/2π, or a little more than 1/8".
Anyway, you may be able to determine if it looks like you'll have the clearance to try.
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So I have a Tri event coming up in a little over a week.. as I mapped out the course, I noticed the climb was a little longer with elevation than I expected. About 2 mile +8 -to 9%
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.
I have a Giant TCR Composite 2 w/ 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Components. I'm not an expert cyclist, so I apologize If I'm missing any crucial info.
I just put a 12-27 cassette on in place of the 11-23. The chainring is 53/39. My rear derailleur is an Ultegra RD-6500 which will only go up to 27/28 if I recall.
So.. advise if I want to get some better hill climbing gears. Can I try a 12-30 cassette (squeeze it in)? Do I need to get a pickup a different derailleur and get maybe a 12-34. Or.. different chainring?
Trying to determine best course of action and parts needed as this is getting close.