SentinelAeon

Hello,

It is time to replace my no profile Schwalbe Kojak (26 x 2.00) because they are quite damaged. I am using bike for everyday for about 10 km on asphalt. I was happy with tires, because they are fast and comfy, but they do have some problems. I had to replace my punctured tube a lot, so i need something more durable. Also having no profile proved dangerous in certain situations, when tire slipped going out of groove on a road (good example is groove for rain water). I could use some profile, at least on sides.

To summarise, i need a tire width about 1.50, i will use it 99% on asphalt (roads), i care about speed, durability and i want tire to be safe (some profile at least on sides). Preferably i would like a similar price range to Kojaks if possible.

gsa103

Schwalbe Marathon Mondial?

SkyDog75

About having to replace punctured tubes "a lot"... What kind of punctures are we talking about? Punctures from road hazards like glass or wire? Pinch flats? Ruptures on the rim side of the tube? The tire itself is really only a factor in the first case, so replacing the tire may not fix your problem with flats. (And the Kojak does have a puncture-resistant belt, so it should be pretty decent against road hazards.)

Anyway, about other tire options... The Panaracer T-Serv would be a suitable choice. It's a durable tire and has a little bit of tread if that's what you want.

tyrion

The Schwalbe Marathon line has more puncture resistance than it's other tires (note puncture resistances if different than durability). But it's always a tradeoff, if you want more puncture resistance and/or durability you have to give up rolling efficiency. Marathon Supremes will give you more puncture protection than Kojaks but less rolling efficiency, and Supremes cost a lot more.

SentinelAeon

As far as flat tires, it is mostly because of glass pieces. The tire has many holes, some small, some big. Most pieces (like little stones) get stuck in this holes but do not reach the tube itself since, as someone mentined, this tire has some protection. But smaller glass pieces do get through in time. The last time i had a flat tire, it actualy wasnt a piece of glass, it was a piece of really thin wire, it was as thick as a hair and even they guy replacing the tube was really amazed by it.

I care a lot about rolling efficiency but sadly there has to be tradeoffs.

canklecat

Check out Michelin Protek Urban. Michelin Protek tires use Aramide puncture shields, similar to Kevlar fabric, not just thicker rubber, so it's reasonably flexible even with a heavy duty puncture shield. And Michelins are often heavily discounted by various online retailers, so they may be better values than other brands.

I've ridden more than 1,500 miles over the past year on Protek Cross Max on some terrible roads without a single puncture flat, despite glass, roofing nails and drywall screws that slashed through the rubber tread but didn't penetrate the yellow fabric shield. I just used Shoe Goo to patch the slashed tread. Tough tires.

But the Protek Cross Max are heavy at 1,100 gr for 700x40 tires. If I rode only on pavement and could avoid some of the worst poorly maintained rural roads I'd go for the Protek Urban. Lighter weight, thinner tread, I think a 1mm or 2mm puncture shield rather than 5mm, no tread blocks on the shoulders so fast cornering on pavement wouldn't feel squirmy.

AdvXtrm

I'd suggest going with the Schwalbe "Marathon HS 420".

SentinelAeon

canklecat: did i read correctly that you used shoe goo on your tire ? The reason i am asking you is i remember shoe goo from my younger years as a skater, we used to put shoe goo on side of our shoe to protect it. And i remember that it was impossible to remove that thing from a shoe. I just patched the biggest holes on my tire with hotgluegun but i am not sure it will last a long time, could you report how well shoe goo did that ?

Snuts

https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires
Here you go, includes rolling resistance, and puncture resistance ratings.

+1, this is my preferred tires. I am running 6 of them on my primary bikes.

Hope this helps,

-Snuts-

1989Pre 

Try a few different tires and see if you get better results.

IRC TIRE BICYCLE TIRE OFFICIAL SITE | COMMUTER | METRO

AdvXtrm

Another one to consider, and the one I'm most like to go with myself, is that Schwalbe "Energizer Plus Tour HS 441". The all-around qualities and capabilities of that tire are very attractive.

CliffordK

"the guy replacing the tube?" Not yourself?

One thing that I'll do periodically is squeeze and probe every hole in the tire for glass. It gets to be a pain with 100+ holes, but I don't let glass slowly dig through the tire carcass.

As far as the superthin wires. Radial tires use them for support. If a tire gets bald, or usually when worn unevenly, it will get down to those wires and start leaving them on the pavement. They are like needles to your tires, and I'm not sure anything will be 100% secure against them.

One potential protection is from the Marathon Plus, with the idea that the thicker tread will absorb debris. However, my interpretation is that the thicker the tread, the bigger the holes. And, my Marathon Plus picked up a huge piece of glass in the first couple of days of use. I tried to boot it, but it eventually led to the premature demise of the tire.

The Panaracer Tourguard Plus is a little less expensive than the Schwalbe Marathon Plus, and might be worth considering. I don't have a lot of miles on my cargo bike, but the Panaracer hasn't failed me yet.

TIRES PAN TOURGUARD+ 26x2.0 WIRE BK/BK REF

Perhaps replace the tires more frequently.

CliffordK

One more tire to keep in the back of your mind is the Tannus NO FLAT Tires.
Tannus Aither 1.1 Razor Blade Single Bike Tire 26×1.75 (44-559) Midnight (Black) | Cycle To Go

Here are some notes.
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...olid-tire.html

I have the 700c x 23 tires on one bike.
They are slightly rougher than the pneumatic tires, but not too bad.
They also feel somewhat slower than the pneumatic tires. But, it is just my winter commuter, not racing.

The biggest downside is that I believe they also slip a little more than other tires... which is a problem for the winter commuter. IT RAINS HERE.

You have to match the tire & pin width to your rim.

pamelaw33

You can go for Michelin Protek 26x1.4 which would provide a good grip on the roads. It's available in slick and semi-slick.

79pmooney

Another factor - different treads are radicaly different in how much stuff they pick up. This usually follows the grip, especially wet road grip, with the grippy tiresmuch more prone to picking small things up and those items working their way into the tread.

I ride narrower 700c road tires almost exclusively. In the winter I do a lot of miles on Vittoria Open Paves, a tire with an excellent gripping thread n the wet. But those tires are magnets for everything. So I have a second set of wheels for each type of bike with one size larger Panaracer Paselas. Those tires pick up far less (and resist better that which does stick). But in return, they are heavier, slower rolling and much slipperier in the wet. My summer good tires are Vittoria Open Corsas, very similar to the Open Paves except the thread. ANd they pick up far less and suffer far fewer flats and cuts.

Not very scientific, but run your hand over the tread of your next proposed tire. If it sticks, it will be closer to my Open Paves. If it slides, think the Paselas. (Now some tires have a glossy molding film on them new that will distort this test. And on that note, remember, if this is the case, those first few turns will be on tires nowhere near as secure as they will be at 100 miles.)

Ben

canklecat

Yup, Shoe Goo. Seems to be holding up after a couple of months. I can see a couple of spots that either I missed or the Shoe Goo wore through, but others where it's still intact over the cuts. I mostly use this bike for errands, usually only short trips, but this month I've been riding it more often, probably 100 miles over four or five rides.

Last time I used Shoe Goo was to repair holes in the leather soles of my elk hide boots. Worked pretty well, lasted quite awhile before I finally had them resoled. Only problem was the patched spots were a bit more slippery than the leather.

canklecat

Yup. I really like the Continental Speed Rides on my mountain bike, but the diamond file tread pattern picks up lots of little bits of debris in the thin siping between the tiny tread blocks. Usually it's just tiny pebbles, but occasionally a tiny shard of glass or grass burr will wedge in there and cause punctures. Tradeoff for otherwise great all terrain tires.

Common chevron pattern tread tires like the Michelin Protek and some Schwalbes, Innovas and others seem less likely to trap debris in the wider sipes between tread blocks. That may be among the reasons I haven't had any puncture flats with the Michelin Protek Cross Max (along with thicker than average tread and 5mm Aramide puncture shield).

indyfabz

Old school.

DomaneS5

For road bikes, Continental Gatorskins are amazing. I could ride through lava and tires would not go flat.

SentinelAeon

CliffordK: I usualy do everything on my bike myself but this time i was in a hurry and had no spare tubes at home. Lesson learned though since i paid about 3€ for tube and like 13€ for work. The guy did "toothpick" every hole though i have to say and like someone said, its not a pleasant work.

canklecat: I think i am going to order a tube, as far as i remember its really usefull thing to have around for various things. How much did you pay for it ? I am thinking of ordering something cheap from ebay to test it out. I am also testing how well hotgluegun thing is holding on. My idea with it was that first i would fill the big holes with hotglue and then use hot air gun to melt it again so it would fill those holes really tight and i mean every corner. Hotglue also feels similar to tire material, for instance i tried silicone before and it is far to soft, it will simply fall out.

Thank you for all advices, there are really many awesome tires on the market. I think in the end i might go ahead and simply look for best price/performance deal i can get in my country.

rumrunn6

probably not for the OP but if I still had my 26" MTB I'd still have those fun Maxxis Holy Rollers. those were fun!

not my bike

fast_rider

Got new tires last week. So getting ready for Spring.

rumrunn6

this stuff is good, but takes a while to get cuz it ships from the UK

Loctite Powerflex Super Glue Gel 3g Tube LOCPFG3T

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



before



after


rode them another 44 miles after soptting the splits. glued them for 22 of those miles & they were fine. but I replaced the tires

canklecat

I don't remember, I've had this tube of Shoe Goo for years. I was surprised it hadn't dried out when I opened it a couple of months ago to patch the cuts in the tire.

The only things I've found the Shoe Goo doesn't work with are a couple of shoes with synthetic soles. Birkenstock used to make sandals in a material kinda like Crocs and Okabashi sandals. Good for the beach. Unfortunately the leatherette straps separated from the lowers and I never could find a glue that worked on them. To their credit Birkie replaced them free, but they'd already discontinued those sandals due to quality control problems. And I can't find anything that sticks to the soles of my old Montrail low top walking shoes.

But Shoe Goo has worked well with leather and most other rubber and synthetics I've used it on.

SentinelAeon

Yesterday i applied hot glue again. I choose different approach. I took some old leftover pieces of hot glue and used soldering iron at right temperature to melt it into the holes. Now i will test it for a few days to see how it goes. In either case i have to say filling those holes was therapeutic. After i filled a hole, i applied solder directly to it, to melt it again to make sure it fills all tiny holes.

Some pictures of how my tire loooks like and patches where i applied hot glue: https://imgur.com/a/4aB80