Suntour Barcon/Need Mounting Pod
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Suntour Barcon/Need Mounting Pod
Suntour mounting pod stuck in vintage pod. Anyone have a spare mounting pod or left side whole unit. Also, I believe these should pull 3x7 speeds?
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#2
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I'll check my spares. IIRC, I have one. I don't believe the side matters on the original Suntour model. I know they can handle a standard 6-speed freewheel, so a 7-speed should not be an issue.
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#3
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The old pod is stuck where? If it's in the bar you should be able to remove it, probably without damaging bar or part.
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#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Stuck in bar. I put in PB Blaster but the screw won't turn, it turns the whole pod but not the bolt. Not sure how to hold the pod tighter without damage
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#5
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Bless you Pastor Bob!
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#6
Senior Member
Pretty sure I have one if Pastor Bob doesn’t.
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You do know that the internal expansion hex-bolt is left hand thread, clockwise to loosen?
Hold the protruding part of the pod with crescent wrench on flat sides. You could also sacrifice the handlebars, cut out the shifter pod free if you don't need the handlebars.
Hold the protruding part of the pod with crescent wrench on flat sides. You could also sacrifice the handlebars, cut out the shifter pod free if you don't need the handlebars.
#8
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I just did a quick search, and no luck! I'll look more completely tomorrow, but you might need to fall back to sloar.
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Last edited by pastorbobnlnh; 07-16-23 at 05:32 AM.
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#10
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Worst part is I fully rebuilt a set that I now cannot find! Grrrrrrr…
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#11
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I just found that my set of bar-cons has a problem side. hmmm...
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
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#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I just found that my set of bar-cons has a problem side. hmmm...
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
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#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I just found that my set of bar-cons has a problem side. hmmm...
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
What MIGHT work is to put some padding in vise grip jaws and grab the entire mechanism, and then turn counter-clockwise. When I attempted this, it had the effect of loosening the expanders. You might be able to get more leverage this way than using a hex key.
- it’s out. But bent one side of housing. The expander bolt is steel, threads look trashed on the housing. Its really bodged up
- looks like this had zero grease on it on install
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Last edited by etherhuffer; 07-06-23 at 09:56 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
maybe. If the bolt can be pulled a tap might fix the threads, maybe bend the housing back. Had these been installed with even a little grease it would have come out cleanly
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#16
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Send me your address and I’ll get this out.
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#17
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#18
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Also as to how much travel they have, I've run Shimano 10 speed with them. 3/7 ought to be a breeze.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Excellent. I have a Mountech front derailleur on my old Fuji tourer. It's high-normal so that both levers go in the same direction. I really like it and may look for another one of those. The Silver Shifter barcons are great, but they do stab you in the leg when your bars swing around
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#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Question on the Suntour barcons. One side ratchets, not the other. What is the difference?
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#21
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Personal opinion: These are simply the best shifters available anywhere. I put them on the UO-8 when it took it over from my wife and converted to drop bars, and I have a set ready to go for the Carlton build.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
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#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Something is amiss, because the units are identical, and both should ratchet (in a non-indexed manner).
Personal opinion: These are simply the best shifters available anywhere. I put them on the UO-8 when it took it over from my wife and converted to drop bars, and I have a set ready to go for the Carlton build.
Personal opinion: These are simply the best shifters available anywhere. I put them on the UO-8 when it took it over from my wife and converted to drop bars, and I have a set ready to go for the Carlton build.
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#23
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Another set of SunTour ratchet barends saved from scrap!
Side note regarding thumbies for my mountain bike: I was absolutely disgusted when I discovered that the newer generation thumb shifters have only indexed and what I call "soft-indexed" mode -- no true friction or ratchet/friction action. My solution with any similar set is to reverse the levers, since the intended front derailleur control remains blessedly non-indexed, as all front derailleur controls should be. I have yet to discern any advantage whatsoever to index shifting, and plenty of disadvantages, particularly for anyone who likes to mix-and-match components and otherwise customize gearing in various ways, as I always have.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#25
Count Orlok Member
Speaking of Suntour Barcons--
Anyone have a spare cap (not sure of the correct name)? Covers the bolt end? I lost mine...
ETA: Apparently called the "Axle Lock Nut", part 16 here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/stronglight/3205700575
Anyone have a spare cap (not sure of the correct name)? Covers the bolt end? I lost mine...
ETA: Apparently called the "Axle Lock Nut", part 16 here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/stronglight/3205700575
Last edited by gna; 07-18-23 at 02:51 PM.