dvs cycles

The wheelset that came on our 2007 Santana (36 spoke Fur rims with Hadley hubs) is now at 4000 miles.
Seems Hadley does not have a website nor does Santana mention anything as to the required maintainance. It's all about the sweet 16 I guess.
Anyone with any info to share and pictures or diagrams are always helpful too.
Right now I see no issues but need to know if there is anything I need to be doing to give them a long life.
Thanks.

TandemGeek

https://www.go-ride.com/Articles/hadl...ance_intro.htm

Contact info: Mike Hadley

Hadley Racing Products
1937 W 11th St
91784 Upland, CA
(909) 946-6780

On Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/group.php?gi...1443035&v=wall

Philly Tandem

I have four sets of wheels with Hadley hubs for my Santana tandem and triplet (26" and 700c sizes, 40 and 48 spokes). Never had a problem with any of them, nor have I really done any maintenance despite 1,000s of miles on all surfaces, including loaded touring. They have sealed bearings, which last a long time.

Well, I take the "no maintenance" back. I do occasionally lube the freehub pawls on the rear hub using Chris King freehub lube that my LBS ordered for me. I only do this when I have the freehub body off for other reasons (see below).

It's easy to disassemble the hubs, which is a great feature for the rear in particular. All it takes is two 5mm Allen wrenches and everything comes apart easily. For the rear, unscrew the axle ends, slide the axle out, and then carefully rotate and pull the freehub body to disengage it from the hub shell. Be careful not to disturb the engagement pawls on the freehub itself. They are just pressed-in to the freehub with tiny springs. To replace the freehub assembly you'll need to rotate the assembly while lightly pressing the assembly back into the hub shell.

This easy removal of the cassette is my favorite feature of the hubs. Makes it very easy to pack an S&S bike in a case (I always pull the cassette and axle) or repair a drive-side spoke that may have broken (which has never happened to me). Sometimes I'll even just take it off to better clean out gunk behind the cassette.

Philly Tandem

The link to the directions posted by TandemGeek are for MTB/freeride hubs from Hadley, which look to be somewhat different from their tandem hubs. You don't need a pin spanner to disassemble the tandem axle, for instance. I imagine the freehub disassembly might be the same, but how often does one rebuild a freehub? (Although it's nice to know you can.)

jnbrown

I had a Santana with Hadley hubs. Like Briwasson said they are very easy to disassemble with two 5mm allen wrenches.
The only maintenance I did was to clean and lube the pawls because they were getting stuck causing the freehub to jump.
There was some rust in that area that I cleaned out. Probably a good idea to do this like once a year.

TandemGeek

Whoops. Sorry about that. Last one I fiddled with was a 135mm lock-ring version.

But, yes... as Brian and JB mentioned, Hadley uses the same design as Phil Wood where the axle and axle end-caps are machined to provide the exact tolerances needed without using any pre-load adjustments.
For a visual, Phil Wood's illustrated FSC (Field Serviceable Cassette) service instructions provide a good approximation of how you'd pull apart the Hadley hubs.

https://www.philwood.com/support/serv...-cassette-hub/

However, unlike Phil Wood, Hadley (as well as White Industries, Chris King, and most others) specify the use of a lightweight oil instead of grease for lubrication of the pawls and engagement ring area. Rich Shapiro mentioned this in his June '08 reply to a similar question on servicing Hadley hubs.

jeff^d

Does anyone know if Phil Wood Tenacious oil would work for the Hadley pawls?

TandemGeek

I would think it would work as well as anything else. If memory serves, Tenacious oil is similar in consistency to the Chris King ring lube and, in fact, what Phil Wood even recommends for their hubs is a mixture of their waterproof grease & tenacious oil except in cold climates where only the tenacious oil is recommended.

I tend to use a light film of just the Phil Wood waterproof grease on both my Phil Wood and White Industries cassette freehub pawls and engagement rings and have never had any issues. It tends to eliminate almost all of the pawl noise which doubles as a reminder of when I need to clean and service the pawl engagement area, i.e., when the pawls begin to get noisy just clean and relube. I'd guess that on average I probably pull the road tandem hubs apart for cleaning and relubrication at least once a year, more often on the wheels that get used all the time. The off-road tandem has Chris King hubs which only get serviced using CK's ring drive lubricant.

Philly Tandem

One other note: most Santana Hadley hubs come with a washer-looking spacer on the rear non-drive side axle. You see the outer endcap (machined inside to fit a 5mm hex key), the spacer, then the inner bearing "cone" (for lack of a better term). The spacer is designed to be removed if you install an Arai drum brake. If it's missing, it doesn't hurt anything other than aesthetics. You can order the spacer from Santana, but they are surprisingly expensive, like $10 or so, since they are custom machined.

jeff^d

Thanks. Yeah, the noise is what is making me think it's time to service our Hadleys. They're on our mountain tandem and we have about 1000 miles on them so far, plus we live in a dry and dusty area. The rear hub has always been louder than most, but lately it's turned into more of a buzz instead of the purr when they were new.

Hadley is right down the road from me, but I have the Phil oil laying around so I'll give it a shot.

dvs cycles

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like they are no more complicated than my Ksyriums and require less fuss.
If I don't remove and clean the freehub body on them every 3000 miles the bushing wears prematurely and the hub body gets wobbly.
Learned this the hard way. $60 lesson.