Old Fuji
08-30-11, 03:31 PM
#1
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
Old Fuji
I posted this over in the road cycling forum. I hope I'm not violating any protocol by posting it here as well.
I thought maybe some of us "more mature" folks might know more about this bike I saw on craigslist today.
I'd appreciate any info or comments about the particular model and what to look for when I go to see it tomorrow. Thanks...
I thought maybe some of us "more mature" folks might know more about this bike I saw on craigslist today.
I'd appreciate any info or comments about the particular model and what to look for when I go to see it tomorrow. Thanks...
08-30-11, 03:39 PM
#2
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Looks like a good bike. The folks in C&V are the experts on these things. Road Cycling, not as much.
Is it the correct size for you?
I'm no expert but I'd say just look for dents, cracks at the welds, rust, etc. Look for wear on the cogs and chainrings, etc. Give it a good ride to check the shifting, brakes, handling, comfort, grinding/noise in BB area, etc.
Is it the correct size for you?
I'm no expert but I'd say just look for dents, cracks at the welds, rust, etc. Look for wear on the cogs and chainrings, etc. Give it a good ride to check the shifting, brakes, handling, comfort, grinding/noise in BB area, etc.
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The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
Last edited by RonH; 08-30-11 at 03:45 PM.
08-30-11, 03:48 PM
#3
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
Looks like a good bike. The folks in C&V are the experts on these things. Road Cycling, not as much.
Is it the correct size for you?
I'm no expert but I'd say just look for dents, cracks at the welds, rust, etc. Look for wear on the cogs and chainrings, etc. Give it a good ride to check the shifting, brakes, handling, comfort, grinding/noise in BB area, etc.
Is it the correct size for you?
I'm no expert but I'd say just look for dents, cracks at the welds, rust, etc. Look for wear on the cogs and chainrings, etc. Give it a good ride to check the shifting, brakes, handling, comfort, grinding/noise in BB area, etc.
And yes, I believe it will fit me.
08-30-11, 04:01 PM
#4
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You might want to check this web site which has lots of Fuji information: https://www.classicfuji.com/index.html
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A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
08-30-11, 04:36 PM
#5
You might want to check this web site which has lots of Fuji information: https://www.classicfuji.com/index.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...8#post13155558
08-30-11, 06:12 PM
#6
Senior Member
Suicide brake levers and stem shifters point to a lower end bike. Also, it looks like it might have chromed steel rims which are heavy and don't brake well especially when wet compared to alloy rims.
08-30-11, 06:20 PM
#7
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Decent bike by the looks of it. See if they will budge on that price, though. It's no Ace or Finest.
08-30-11, 06:40 PM
#8
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
This is what came back on the C&V forum, and my response that followed:
Not grand, not a touring bike either. But priced at about its value, and it appears to be in really good condition. You can look up the information at the vintage Fuji site, they have all of the catalogs and specs. Can't really tell much from the picture, somewhere in the 1977 to 1979 time frame (only differences in those years was the color anyway).
Steel rims, high ten steel frame, stem shifters, claw rear derailleur hanger, steel handlebars, steel seat post, nutted rear axle, 30 pound bike. As you get in this price range, you either have to get lucky and scoop something fast, or you usually will get something pretty basic. Better bikes from that era start at about $200.
Steel rims, high ten steel frame, stem shifters, claw rear derailleur hanger, steel handlebars, steel seat post, nutted rear axle, 30 pound bike. As you get in this price range, you either have to get lucky and scoop something fast, or you usually will get something pretty basic. Better bikes from that era start at about $200.
Wow...ok. I really do appreciate the info. That's a lot more than I could glean from:
https://www.classicfuji.com/
So I guess the bike in question would be more of a collectable/novelty than a daily driver. And even if as such, Sheldon Brown says about Fuji, "Not a whole lot collectible here."
I was hoping closer to 25lbs than 30. I suppose one could switch out the bars, seat post, etc for something lighter, but that's the path to making the bike into something that it isn't, not that there's anything wrong with that.
Thanks again
https://www.classicfuji.com/
So I guess the bike in question would be more of a collectable/novelty than a daily driver. And even if as such, Sheldon Brown says about Fuji, "Not a whole lot collectible here."
I was hoping closer to 25lbs than 30. I suppose one could switch out the bars, seat post, etc for something lighter, but that's the path to making the bike into something that it isn't, not that there's anything wrong with that.
Thanks again
08-30-11, 06:43 PM
#9
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
08-30-11, 07:06 PM
#11
Full Member
I was just helping a friend of mine with a 1976 Gran Tourer - broken rear derailleur. Heavy bike, better than department-store bikes, but not all that much... Front derailleur shifts "backward", lever up = big ring. Not much to get excited about, lack of rear QR will make on-the-road repairs difficult.
08-30-11, 07:08 PM
#12
Seņor Blues
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08-30-11, 07:15 PM
#14
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On a real touring bike? Sure. On anything else, down tube shifters.
That bike should sell for between $100 and $125 (its asking price). Market value of better vintage bikes here start at about $200. Sure, I have bought them for less, but I moved fast, and bought at a below market price.
That bike should sell for between $100 and $125 (its asking price). Market value of better vintage bikes here start at about $200. Sure, I have bought them for less, but I moved fast, and bought at a below market price.
08-31-11, 03:11 PM
#16
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08-31-11, 05:10 PM
#17
Sore saddle cyclist
Maybe I'm saying that is what it would be worth to me. But really, it's not really a great bike, heavy tubing, poor components, marginal wheels. and probably not more than $300 new. In fact, I take back my offer, I wouldn't take it for $0.
08-31-11, 06:02 PM
#18
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
I think the bike is pretty. But...I'm not a collector. If I buy a geared bike I want to be able to enjoy riding it at least as much as I do my mid-level SS. I guess that would mean something with 700mm wheels that can handle higher pressure tires, and isn't overly heavy.
Based on the info I got here, injected into my thought process, I decided to pass on the Fuji.
Based on the info I got here, injected into my thought process, I decided to pass on the Fuji.
08-31-11, 06:12 PM
#19
Senior Member
27" wheels aren't necessarily a bad thing. There are plenty of 27" tires out there with max pressure ratings above 100 psi. The usual things to look for on vintage bikes are chrome fork tips and rear DOs; down tube shifters (or bar ends on touring bikes); absence of suicide levers; and alloy rims. Find all these on a bike that fits and give it a try.
08-31-11, 08:52 PM
#20
Seņor Blues
Thread Starter
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that the issue is more of the wheels not being able to handle the higher pressure tires(?). The tires may handle the pressure but only on wheels that can handle the tires and the pressure...
09-01-11, 06:22 AM
#21
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You know, the interesting thing is for someone out there a bike like this would be a dream come true. It would be transportation, or perhaps their first bike, or even a step up from what they may have now. We (yes, self included) can be such elitists at times. It may not be the right match for the OP, but it could be a prayer answered for someone else.
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A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
09-01-11, 05:39 PM
#22
Senior Member
That's why alloy rims were on my list of things to look for. The old steel rims were, for the most part, hookless and would not hold a tire at higher pressure (as well as not stopping well, especially when wet). AFAIK, alloys have all been hooked for a long, long time (my son's '81 Centurion, which is not a high end bike by any means, has hooked rims and holds high pressure tires just fine) so should not have a problem at higher pressures.
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